Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
There are fem pubes popping out on various areas
FFOF ( Fox Farms Ocean Forest ) made Simple - Autoflower
anexgrower
Well-Known Member
Bummer
Rdubz
Well-Known Member
@Budzbuddha , Nice post ! I'm wondering about using Tap instead of RO I'm going to get a outdoor grow going first grow outdoor this year and was wondering about being on a water softener should I stick to PHed RO isntead ? I have only ever used RO in my hydro grows never tried the softened water .
anexgrower
Well-Known Member
Definitely don’t use a water softener, it adds salts the plants can’t use, and removes some of what the plants need
Rdubz
Well-Known Member
ok ok thank you I was thinking about cutting it in half with RO but wasn’t sure if it was a bad idea lol I think I will just keep doing what I’m doing thanks man!
Pdotdippidydabs
Member
In version one top half happy frog bottom ocean forest should I add dr earth flower girl or dr earth homegrown tomato and herb at the layer separation and how much to add at that separation I also have great white myco
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
I mix the myco and fertilizer at that layer then top fill . For a gallon ( test size I used )
I added a scoop myco .... which by the way can be any brand .... DYNOMYCO , Great White , Extreme MYKOS , etc.
Pdotdippidydabs
Member
And which fertilizer would be best on that layer mix, flower girl(3-9-4) or homegrown(4-6-3)?
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
Giving DYNOMYCO a shot at germ cups - Popped a Privada skywalker OG ( only seed I got 
) .
Needless to say , I will CS some lower branches for more S1 seeds ....... no way am I gonna let this strain go bye bye.
I believe DNA genetics carry this strain but why pay for seeds ?
I did a pre soak with spring water and a pinch of hydrogen peroxide in a shot glass before putting in zip. Normally I just plant , but because seed is 2 years old - I didn’t want to take any chances on germination. So the zip / paper towel method allows me to see if still viable.
Cup has some EWC added with EB Stone Recipe 420 soil ( alone ) and some dynomyco . I am running out of great white so I thought I would check out this brand.
) .Needless to say , I will CS some lower branches for more S1 seeds ....... no way am I gonna let this strain go bye bye.
I believe DNA genetics carry this strain but why pay for seeds ?
I did a pre soak with spring water and a pinch of hydrogen peroxide in a shot glass before putting in zip. Normally I just plant , but because seed is 2 years old - I didn’t want to take any chances on germination. So the zip / paper towel method allows me to see if still viable.
Cup has some EWC added with EB Stone Recipe 420 soil ( alone ) and some dynomyco . I am running out of great white so I thought I would check out this brand.
TheEggMan123
Member
Budzbuddah,
I’ve been following this forum since before I started these two plants. These are 3 gallons smart pots, the bottom 3rd filled with ffof soil and a teaspoon of Dr. Earth flower girl all mixed together. Then I took a Solo cup, put it in the middle of the pot and filled around it with ffof once again. Then filled the space where the solo cup was with ffhf. Soaked 3 seeds until they sank and then waited 24 hours and planted into the middle of the ffhf. 2 out of the 3 seeds came up and I lost the 3rd one (never came up). I am PH’ing my water to 6.5 and have watered some myco into the soil. One of my plants is vigorous and dark green and the other is slower growing (but growing) and all new growth is lime green, but older growth is slowly turning darker green. Is the lime green from the ffof being hot? I’m perplexed Thank you in advance for all replies I watered right after this photo was taken as the soil was dry to about 2 1/2 inches down. I’m keeping my temperature at 80f and my humidity at 60%.
I’ve been following this forum since before I started these two plants. These are 3 gallons smart pots, the bottom 3rd filled with ffof soil and a teaspoon of Dr. Earth flower girl all mixed together. Then I took a Solo cup, put it in the middle of the pot and filled around it with ffof once again. Then filled the space where the solo cup was with ffhf. Soaked 3 seeds until they sank and then waited 24 hours and planted into the middle of the ffhf. 2 out of the 3 seeds came up and I lost the 3rd one (never came up). I am PH’ing my water to 6.5 and have watered some myco into the soil. One of my plants is vigorous and dark green and the other is slower growing (but growing) and all new growth is lime green, but older growth is slowly turning darker green. Is the lime green from the ffof being hot? I’m perplexed Thank you in advance for all replies I watered right after this photo was taken as the soil was dry to about 2 1/2 inches down. I’m keeping my temperature at 80f and my humidity at 60%.
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Just wanna start by giving a huge thanks this thread has been really helpful people are so stingy with info when it comes to growing!
Im in the middle of my 1st run & from all the info I’ve gathered I’ve decided that I’d much rather go with a simple organic approach vs unpredictable ass synthetic bottled nutes. So I’m putting together a game plan for future runs. I feel confident with my choice of medium (mix of FFOF,FFHF,perlite,EWC) but I’m still not 100% on the top dressing part.
So I’m thinking I’d like to mix GreatWhite myco with some organic fertilizer for top feeding... I see that Dr. Earth 555 is recommended but I’ve seen a lot of organic growers top feed with a combo of 444 & 284. Which would be better? I plan on growing autos & the medium I’m using is mentioned above. Thanks in advance to anyone with some advice!!!
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
Most general dry fertilizer should work ... I used to run a 3-3-3 . ..... 2-8-4 is good for bloom after stretch.
Okay that’s good to know I’m going to go with either Dr. Earth or Down to earth (Gaia Green is too expensive) So would you recommend strictly all purpose fertilizer for veg ONLY and then bloom fertilizer for Flower ONLY.... Or should I be mixing both in some type of 70/30 ratio for veg then 30/70 for flower(Mr Canucks) ?
Zanonomicon
Member
I've been running autos with FFOF/FFHF and Down To Earth Fertilizers. I'm still trying to find the right mixture for Down To Earth ferts top dressing but I'm definitely enjoying the range of ferts they have.
I have a thread going with my progress. https://rollitup.org/t/grow-diary.1046009/#post-16141920 that's the start and then I moved it over to the Grow Diary section.
From what I've found at least, it's not really a 1:1 experience with top dressing when you're not running the exact products that Mr Canucks is running.
My current progress:
I'm prepping for my first outdoor organic grow this summer and decided on a FFOF with organic top dressing feeding. My plan is:
- Germinate seeds in final containers ( 7-gal smart pots)
- Bottom 1/3 of pot made up of 2 parts FFOF with 1 part perlite and 2 Tbps Gaia Green All Purpose 4:4:4
- Upper layer with 1 part FFOF, 1 part FFHF, and 1 part perlite
- Seedling pocket with 1 part FFHF and 1 part perlite
- Starting around week 4, or as needed, I will top dress with FFOF, EWC and 3 Tbps Gaia Green Power Bloom 2:8:4
I have about one month left before I germinate the seeds so I plan to get the soil mixed and beneficial bacteria reproducing. I might do an AACT and water the soil in some large tubs while I wait.
I'm still about 2 months out from my estimated first top dressing. Should I blend the top dressing now and keep it cooking or just add it fresh when I need it? Are there any benefits to letting it cook for 2 months before use or is the Gaia Green mix available immediately on application?
- Germinate seeds in final containers ( 7-gal smart pots)
- Bottom 1/3 of pot made up of 2 parts FFOF with 1 part perlite and 2 Tbps Gaia Green All Purpose 4:4:4
- Upper layer with 1 part FFOF, 1 part FFHF, and 1 part perlite
- Seedling pocket with 1 part FFHF and 1 part perlite
- Starting around week 4, or as needed, I will top dress with FFOF, EWC and 3 Tbps Gaia Green Power Bloom 2:8:4
I have about one month left before I germinate the seeds so I plan to get the soil mixed and beneficial bacteria reproducing. I might do an AACT and water the soil in some large tubs while I wait.
I'm still about 2 months out from my estimated first top dressing. Should I blend the top dressing now and keep it cooking or just add it fresh when I need it? Are there any benefits to letting it cook for 2 months before use or is the Gaia Green mix available immediately on application?
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
One “ deficiency “ I noticed after a few runs that seems to be common is potassium in later bloom.
I have tried to compensate with dry fert but doesnt seem enough. I am planning to use Seabird guauno ( Down to earth) to see if this will help bump . Next set of testing mixes i will begin introducing that specific element ( around week 3 or 4 of bloom ) to hedge against potassium becoming exhausted.
Rest of mix seems to hold fairly well but potassium ( yellow leaf edges to tip ) can definitely show in later weeks of bloom. So some tweaking will be needed.
I have tried to compensate with dry fert but doesnt seem enough. I am planning to use Seabird guauno ( Down to earth) to see if this will help bump . Next set of testing mixes i will begin introducing that specific element ( around week 3 or 4 of bloom ) to hedge against potassium becoming exhausted.
Rest of mix seems to hold fairly well but potassium ( yellow leaf edges to tip ) can definitely show in later weeks of bloom. So some tweaking will be needed.
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
Remember take this thread as only a base to experiment with .... see what will work for you and if you need to adjust some things for your grows.
