First grow ever 22 LEDs drip feed build and journal

OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
I will be doing Avid and neem oil in veg and submerg them in soapy water before moving them to the flowering room, once the in flowering room I will release these bugs:
500 x fallacis
4000 x persimilis
100 x stethorus
Wow, going for some real quality meds over there eh?

Not looking too OG in structure but bugs can cause weird shit like that to happen :peace:
 

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
So I found those mite Tri pack useless cuz as you said the mites just out breed them anyway. Also a lot predator mites do better in cooler more humid environments. The same kind of environment where spider mites wouldn't be out of control anyway.
I am now into the californicus predator mite I get the breeder pack with 25,000 mites in it. $130+hst.
Every clone gets a satchet start of flower. And then one more half way. $130 for 200 sachets cheaper than bug spraying that many plants and I refuse to spray anything during flower I swear I can taste it in the smoke.
Pick the right predator for your environment.
 

canope

Well-Known Member
So I found those mite Tri pack useless cuz as you said the mites just out breed them anyway. Also a lot predator mites do better in cooler more humid environments. The same kind of environment where spider mites wouldn't be out of control anyway.
I am now into the californicus predator mite I get the breeder pack with 25,000 mites in it. $130+hst.
Every clone gets a satchet start of flower. And then one more half way. $130 for 200 sachets cheaper than bug spraying that many plants and I refuse to spray anything during flower I swear I can taste it in the smoke.
Pick the right predator for your environment.
Where do you get your bugs from?
 

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
So I found those mite Tri pack useless cuz as you said the mites just out breed them anyway. Also a lot predator mites do better in cooler more humid environments. The same kind of environment where spider mites wouldn't be out of control anyway.
I am now into the californicus predator mite I get the breeder pack with 25,000 mites in it. $130+hst.
Every clone gets a satchet start of flower. And then one more half way. $130 for 200 sachets cheaper than bug spraying that many plants and I refuse to spray anything during flower I swear I can taste it in the smoke.
Pick the right predator for your environment.
Where do you get your bugs from?
Kams Grower Supply in Guelf or Natural Insect Control in St Catherine's.
 

sethimus

Well-Known Member
So I found those mite Tri pack useless cuz as you said the mites just out breed them anyway. Also a lot predator mites do better in cooler more humid environments. The same kind of environment where spider mites wouldn't be out of control anyway.
I am now into the californicus predator mite I get the breeder pack with 25,000 mites in it. $130+hst.
Every clone gets a satchet start of flower. And then one more half way. $130 for 200 sachets cheaper than bug spraying that many plants and I refuse to spray anything during flower I swear I can taste it in the smoke.
Pick the right predator for your environment.
these are some steep prices, sheeeeesh

lucky to live in europe for once...
 

DukeFluke

Well-Known Member
You using alcohol mate? It kills spider mites and dries out their eggs

If you're thorough and regular with a 60% solution + some surfactant, you'll completely eliminate them.

You can also control them through flower without worrying about residuals. You do need them under control by the peak of bloom because obviously spraying your buds with iso is not an option. But right up until that point it is. Make sure to hit the underside of the leaves during veg, and repeat every few days. Spray floors and tubes. Spray everything. Spray yourself on the way in too. And get a good particulate mask or three for the fumes.

There are some things which surprise me, given how long the cannabis forums have been around, and that a lot of people don't seem to know that isopropyl alcohol can completely eradicate spider mites at a strength which doesn't destroy foliage or harm the plant, is one of them.
 
You using alcohol mate? It kills spider mites and dries out their eggs

If you're thorough and regular with a 60% solution + some surfactant, you'll completely eliminate them.

You can also control them through flower without worrying about residuals. You do need them under control by the peak of bloom because obviously spraying your buds with iso is not an option. But right up until that point it is. Make sure to hit the underside of the leaves during veg, and repeat every few days. Spray floors and tubes. Spray everything. Spray yourself on the way in too. And get a good particulate mask or three for the fumes.

There are some things which surprise me, given how long the cannabis forums have been around, and that a lot of people don't seem to know that isopropyl alcohol can completely eradicate spider mites at a strength which doesn't destroy foliage or harm the plant, is one of them.
Just don’t let the place blow up. ISO fumes will flash in a very dangerous way. Hope your CO2 generator doesn’t light up. Just bc it works does not mean that it is safe.
 

DukeFluke

Well-Known Member
Just don’t let the place blow up. ISO fumes will flash in a very dangerous way. Hope your CO2 generator doesn’t light up. Just bc it works does not mean that it is safe.
At 50-60% and extraction on and used in a sensible way it's not dangerous. We're not spraying 99% iso. Bear in mind the concentration. It's diluted down to a strength which won't harm plants when sprayed directly on foliage and the majority of the spraying is done beneath the canopy.
 

DukeFluke

Well-Known Member
Just to add, we've got to take the necessary precautions when working with iso, co2, ethanol, water and electricity, pesticides or any of the other potentially dangerous stuff we deal with. I expect a grower of this fella's knowledge to know how to mitigate the dangers of working in a grow room.

It might be as low as 40% to kill mites, give or take.
Isolate a plant with mites, spray at 40%. When it dries, check the underside of the leaves. If all mites are dead, use that strength as your solution.
 
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thenasty1

Well-Known Member
at a strength which doesn't destroy foliage or harm the plant,
50% roasted some of my leaves, but it did the job. a few crunchy leaves is a small price to pay for a viable mite control option in (early) flower

Hope your CO2 generator doesn’t light up.
^^^very important
always remember to turn off your burner when dropping the iso bomb
 
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PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
I don't think mr canope wants his end product to be flagged for residual solvents..... Lol. Pricier ethanol is "safer" for inhalation, but can still fail testing.

I'd rather take the mite damage for extraction
 
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Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
Yup the Jacks 3-2-1 is what I will eventually go for, but on the first run atleast I'm going to stick to something idiot-proof. I have alot to think of and really don't want to mess this up. And FYI I work with commercial growers in the same building as mine, they're here to hold my hand the whole way thru, except they're old school and hand water their plants and use HPS. I wanted the new toys :)

My water won't me RO (yet), eventually I will get there. as for treillis I need to figure out a way to set them, from the wall it's not an issue but at the end of the tables I'm still wondering how I'm going to do it. Will definitely prune alot and keep them clean.

Thanks for the tips, that's exactly the kind of info I'm looking for!
You should've gotten your feet wet on a smaller grow first, but I like that your willing to just dive right in.
 

DukeFluke

Well-Known Member
I don't think mr canope wants his end product to be flagged for residual solvents..... Lol. Pricier ethanol is "safer" for inhalation, but can still fail testing.

I'd rather take the mite damage for extraction
Product won't be flagged for residual solvents because the lower foliage of plants were sprayed with Iso during the vegetative stage.

A mite infestation doesn't start out with webbing at the top of plants, first they colonise on the underside of the lower leaves and they're usually there from the time when the grow starts. Choosing not to eliminate them at that stage because you want to take your chances with them almost guarantees that by peak flower you're dealing with a large scale infestation, which increases the work on a grow this size by an enormous amount and reduces the quality of the bud as well..

They can be eradicated completely with alcohol at an early stage and they should be, because at this point there's no need for large amounts of product to be sprayed, or for there to be generators or even many lights running, the plants are easy to work with at that point and if you do the job properly and your clean work is thorough, you won't see them again unless you reintroduce them or the pest pressure on the building itself is really high.
 

DukeFluke

Well-Known Member
You're close. In terms of weight and maturity, you're waiting for the calyxes to swell over the pistils. The plant won't gain much if any weight after that. That's where the last grams on the scale come from. That's it's finished weight.

Looking at that last picture, I'd say another ten days give or take.
Take another picture of a similar sized bud 5 days after that one. If that was monday, take one saturday and post it up.

The density's there, now you're just waiting for the calyxes to swell. Nice grow btw mate :hump:
 

canope

Well-Known Member
You're close. In terms of weight and maturity, you're waiting for the calyxes to swell over the pistils. The plant won't gain much if any weight after that. That's where the last grams on the scale come from. That's it's finished weight.

Looking at that last picture, I'd say another ten days give or take.
Take another picture of a similar sized bud 5 days after that one. If that was monday, take one saturday and post it up.

The density's there, now you're just waiting for the calyxes to swell. Nice grow btw mate :hump:
Thanks man. And yeah 10 is what I was aiming for. Some of them are still a bit fluffy so I’ll probably delay a bit more. I’m diming the lights to 50% and droping the the temp to 70-75 until harvest
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
Product won't be flagged for residual solvents because the lower foliage of plants were sprayed with Iso during the vegetative stage.

A mite infestation doesn't start out with webbing at the top of plants, first they colonise on the underside of the lower leaves and they're usually there from the time when the grow starts. Choosing not to eliminate them at that stage because you want to take your chances with them almost guarantees that by peak flower you're dealing with a large scale infestation, which increases the work on a grow this size by an enormous amount and reduces the quality of the bud as well..

They can be eradicated completely with alcohol at an early stage and they should be, because at this point there's no need for large amounts of product to be sprayed, or for there to be generators or even many lights running, the plants are easy to work with at that point and if you do the job properly and your clean work is thorough, you won't see them again unless you reintroduce them or the pest pressure on the building itself is really high.
That's all well and good for a hobbyists tent grower with a couple of plants. Can check them all daily, it's a different situation commercially. Most Won't catch it till flower due to high plant counts, iso is useless as a preventative.

not worth risking a solvent based miticide when you have safer alternatives(horti oil) that will let you limp to the finish without flagging.

large ops should have a ipm program in place anyways.
 
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