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REALSTYLES

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I'll apologize for the blowing smoke comment. however, what about my questions was wrong? Its ok to ask about a design but not about the thought process in taking this approach for a business? I just wanted the why and how of DIY'ing business equipment. Wouldn't those answers be useful to others thinking along these lines? Does this approach make sense for a business?
Maybe I'm just not good at asking the questions, sorry. I'd like to see him post a thread with in depth information on the mechanics of this operation.
Sharing information. Isn't that what a forum is about?
Have you made a light before? Ive made 14 so far and have the parts to build 4 more but I don't need them just yet(no room). It wouldn't take long for him to put them together plus if he lakes them himself he'll know how to fix it if something goes out.

1820 watts from the wall and 1019.2 PAR watt in a 4x8 tent

SAM_1288.JPG
 

vano1500

Member
Plus it will be easier to build. I can make 6 in 6 hours now but at first 3 hours it took until I got the hang of it lol
http://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/20150009399.pdf

If you have any time to read through journals, Purdue is leading the country in horticulture SSL. This is an older research document that you will not have to pay for. The only thing that is not really discussed is what happens to produce ATP, the energy used later in Dark Reactions. There are 2 photosystems on the bi-lipid layer of a thylakoid... inside of chloroplasts... the nicknames are PS 680 and PS 700. Chlorophyll b reacts with a certain nm, there are also many other pigments in these photosystems (photosystem II and I). 660nm, with a high density is going to produce the best growth and flower. I know the importance of white but I believe that 660nm should be the main light source. wonder what you think? I am here to share info and learn from the experience of the DIY!
 

pop22

Well-Known Member
I have read many of your posts yes and have great respect for what you are doing. I am testing some cobs at the moment. I'll not post till I feel I have a handle on what I'm doing. I'm also very much a DIY person myself.I've built machinery for the paper industry from scratch as part of a job as a millwright, a job that's all DIY!
And I've run a successful business, so I have some inkling of what it takes and the pitfalls
Have you made a light before? Ive made 14 so far and have the parts to build 4 more but I don't need them just yet(no room). It wouldn't take long for him to put them together plus if he lakes them himself he'll know how to fix it if something goes out.

1820 watts from the wall and 1019.2 PAR watt in a 4x8 tent

View attachment 3565793
 

vano1500

Member
Have you made a light before? Ive made 14 so far and have the parts to build 4 more but I don't need them just yet(no room). It wouldn't take long for him to put them together plus if he lakes them himself he'll know how to fix it if something goes out.

1820 watts from the wall and 1019.2 PAR watt in a 4x8 tent

View attachment 3565793

BEAUTIFUL!

what's cool about our building is the HVAC (can be made super cool). it was designed for HPS and HID. We are hoping to save $$ by keeping heat removal passive... I am going to look this up but human nature wants me to just ask... what kind of heat does this produce?
 

vano1500

Member
Since you can place a reasonably large offer I'd look into 3000K/90CRI version of the CXB3590. It has an amazing efficiency for a high CRI LED with lots of output in the deep red range.
Nice, exactly what I was looking at! good to hear conformation.
 

pop22

Well-Known Member
HVAC when run at a moderate level, can be fairly efficient! ( like most things ) With LED lighting you could very well see some fair savings.

BEAUTIFUL!

what's cool about our building is the HVAC (can be made super cool). it was designed for HPS and HID. We are hoping to save $$ by keeping heat removal passive... I am going to look this up but human nature wants me to just ask... what kind of heat does this produce?
 

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
I know the importance of white but I believe that 660nm should be the main light source. wonder what you think? I am here to share info and learn from the experience of the DIY!
everything you quoted here is true, BUT repeated grows in the mmj community have easily shown that a rich white phosphor cob is blowing away blue+red led systems. With a base of 3K cobs I like to supplement my grows with a teensy bit of 660nm, 450nm, actinic blues, but its not really necessary. with the white cobs you will get better canopy penetration and less light burn.

My opinion is that the primary light source should have a big wide fat band in the 600-660 nm, (3000K to 4000K cobs)
 

vano1500

Member
everything you quoted here is true, BUT repeated grows in the mmj community have easily shown that a rich white phosphor cob is blowing away blue+red led systems. With a base of 3K cobs I like to supplement my grows with a teensy bit of 660nm, 450nm, actinic blues, but its not really necessary. with the white cobs you will get better canopy penetration and less light burn.

My opinion is that the primary light source should have a big wide fat band in the 600-660 nm, (3000K to 4000K cobs)
thank you so much! We are going to test both side by side and will share!
 
http://m.miniinthebox.com/en/diy-50w-3950-4000lm-1500ma-3000-3500k-warm-white-light-integrated-led-module-30-36v_p933080.html
Just ordered 4 of these... Looks like a knockoff of the Cree 3950s. Description is a bit vague, I'm still not certain if 50w is the rating or the recommended wattage use for one chip. Either way, I should be able to run about 40w thru each and worst case scenario I'm running them at 80%, no harm done, correct? Says fv is 36v, max current 1500ma. What driver do I need to run all four?
 

alesh

Well-Known Member
http://m.miniinthebox.com/en/diy-50w-3950-4000lm-1500ma-3000-3500k-warm-white-light-integrated-led-module-30-36v_p933080.html
Just ordered 4 of these... Looks like a knockoff of the Cree 3950s. Description is a bit vague, I'm still not certain if 50w is the rating or the recommended wattage use for one chip. Either way, I should be able to run about 40w thru each and worst case scenario I'm running them at 80%, no harm done, correct? Says fv is 36v, max current 1500ma. What driver do I need to run all four?
That's tricky. HLG-185H-C1400 should be able to run them all at about 50W each, provided that they have Vf <= 35.75V @1.4A. Voltage may vary, impossible to tell what the actual value is.
Also don't expect good results with these. Single 3590 @50W will beat 2 of these @50W each, my guess is even 3 of them.
 

Positivity

Well-Known Member
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/CXB-3590-COB-LED-Grow-Light_60351737134.html?spm=a2700.7724857.29.156.FEHR5d

Experts... what do you think. I have been in contact with the company and if everything works out, this would ALMOST be cheaper than doing it ourselves...
That's like the China version of my white and red light. You'd just want to make sure the parts are high quality, the heatsinks are sufficient, things like that

ad says cree 3590s at top but 2540s in the print. Looks a little like a amare setup.

Best light I've seen out of china yet if they don't cheap out on the components
 

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/CXB-3590-COB-LED-Grow-Light_60351737134.html?spm=a2700.7724857.29.156.FEHR5d

Experts... what do you think. I have been in contact with the company and if everything works out, this would ALMOST be cheaper than doing it ourselves...
I'm not familiar with the company or their units.

But a couple of warning signs to note:
- not clear what cob units they are using (3590, 2530 ??) nor what bin cobs. have to assume lowest bin available from cree.
- still uses a lot of 5 watt single diodes, losing the crazy efficiency advantage of white phosphor cobs.
- they claim using 18gauge wire is better than using 16 gauge wire .... clearly indication whoever wrote the ad has no idea what they are talking about.
- specs are unclear as to how many watts at the plug.
- doesn't address distribution over the canopy (one big concentrated hotspot)


- personally I'm biased against Chinese led companies, since they have strange quality standards.
 

vano1500

Member
I'm not familiar with the company or their units.

But a couple of warning signs to note:
- not clear what cob units they are using (3590, 2530 ??) nor what bin cobs. have to assume lowest bin available from cree.
- still uses a lot of 5 watt single diodes, losing the crazy efficiency advantage of white phosphor cobs.
- they claim using 18gauge wire is better than using 16 gauge wire .... clearly indication whoever wrote the ad has no idea what they are talking about.
- specs are unclear as to how many watts at the plug.
- doesn't address distribution over the canopy (one big concentrated hotspot)


- personally I'm biased against Chinese led companies, since they have strange quality standards.
YUP! me too. here is another one... the design is killing me

http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/CXB-3590-Integrated-COB-LED-Grow_60366093043.html?spm=a2700.7724857.29.102.FEHR5d
 

Positivity

Well-Known Member
Omg...china cobs attack. Custom orange paint with the biggest chamfers known to mankind

I think they need a better english translator

I like the other one better...with less monos..real cobs, real drivers, real fan power supplys. Just need to change almost everything
 
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