I've Smoked Weed for over 4 Decades; this is my First Attempt at Growing Anything.

shotrocker

shotrocker

Active Member
I am happy to see the plants growing but clearly, due to their stunted beginnings, they would seem nothing like 4 &1/2 week old plants normally look like. So I should probably subtract, what, like 2 weeks?, to be more on a normal schedule. Or are these destined to be very small plants? I will be looking for advice on when to transplant them into their final 3 gallon pots, and when I should start flowering. I still have added no nutes. Maybe tiny bits next watering. Thanks for any suggestions._MG_6697.jpg_MG_6694.jpg_MG_6691.jpg
 
Nutes and Nugs

Nutes and Nugs

Well-Known Member
Those don't look bad. Unique plants.
Looking back at some seeds I started under less than perfect conditions looked about the same at 4 weeks so you're not far behind.
They will multiply greatly from this point.
Overall I think the lesson learned here was the original soil was the problem due to the excess of hydrogen and later over watering.
I water with passive hydroponics (the pot with holes in the bottom sits in a clothing tote that is watered directly) and let the soil dry out on top before watering or feel the weight of the pot.
May be good for you to take a party cup , fill it with soil and let it totaly dry out. Feel how heavy it is and learn when to water them or let them dry out and droop. Work this into bigger pots as they grow. In time you will figure out their schedule.
Overall don't be to anxious to start new seeds. Think of your timetable or a second room to veg before starting those new seeds.
The plants you have now will keep you busy in the weeks to come.
Take care of those young ladies.
 
scrapdizle

scrapdizle

Active Member
You need to transplant immediately. Since they are still in solo cups it doesn't matter if the soil is wet or dry in terms of when to transplant because of the small amount of soil. When your transplanting take a look at the root system for a moment and evaluate the progress. Its not really how "big" the plant appears in the foliage its really how developed the root system and stem are. I'll bet when you see the root system you will wish you transplanted a week ago.
Also, Your girls (wishful thinking) are showing minute signs of heat stress so double check your high temps when the lamp is on. After you transplant, water with 1/4 strength nutes. Good luck.
 
shotrocker

shotrocker

Active Member
Nutes and Nugs said:
Those don't look bad. Unique plants.
Looking back at some seeds I started under less than perfect conditions looked about the same at 4 weeks so you're not far behind.
They will multiply greatly from this point.
Overall I think the lesson learned here was the original soil was the problem due to the excess of hydrogen and later over watering.
I water with passive hydroponics (the pot with holes in the bottom sits in a clothing tote that is watered directly) and let the soil dry out on top before watering or feel the weight of the pot.
May be good for you to take a party cup , fill it with soil and let it totaly dry out. Feel how heavy it is and learn when to water them or let them dry out and droop. Work this into bigger pots as they grow. In time you will figure out their schedule.
Overall don't be to anxious to start new seeds. Think of your timetable or a second room to veg before starting those new seeds.
The plants you have now will keep you busy in the weeks to come.
Take care of those young ladies.
Click to expand...
Thank you for both the advice and encouragement. I do already have a dry cup to use as a comparison, and have found that useful. My new philosophy on when to water is, when in doubt, don't!
 
shotrocker

shotrocker

Active Member
scrapdizle said:
You need to transplant immediately. Since they are still in solo cups it doesn't matter if the soil is wet or dry in terms of when to transplant because of the small amount of soil. When your transplanting take a look at the root system for a moment and evaluate the progress. Its not really how "big" the plant appears in the foliage its really how developed the root system and stem are. I'll bet when you see the root system you will wish you transplanted a week ago.
Also, Your girls (wishful thinking) are showing minute signs of heat stress so double check your high temps when the lamp is on. After you transplant, water with 1/4 strength nutes. Good luck.
Click to expand...
I'm all ears for your advice, scrap. The temps are 78 - 79 at soil level. I am not getting as much humidity as I would like -30% - despite the humidifier and wet towels. I think I should let them dry out a bit more, (I watered yesterday), before I try my next transplant, as I was pretty clumsy with the last one and want to do better this time. I guess I better go cop some 3 gallon pots! Thanks, again! (And I sure hope those feminized seeds I paid very good money for do turn out to be girls.)
 
scrapdizle

scrapdizle

Active Member
shotrocker said:
before I try my next transplant, as I was pretty clumsy with the last one and want to do better this time.
Click to expand...
Transplanting can be a very simple and clean process given you take the right protocol. Like I mentioned in the previous post soil moisture is not an issue since the tops of the solo cups are smaller then most peoples palms and can easily support the medium while upside down.

How I transplant:
1) Fill the destination pots with soil so that the solo cup top is even with the new pot top so if you put the solo cup in the pot the tops are the same height.
2) Flush the current pot (solo cup) with enough water so that its completely saturated. Let sit and drain for 30 min.
3) I usually do this over the sink but you can do it anywhere you don't mind getting a little dirt on. But make sure both the new pot and bag of soil within arm reach.
4) Place the stem of the plant between your middle and ring finger and your palm on the soil. Once supported, Flip upside down.
5) With your free hand gently squeeze the middle of the pot from all 4 directions (ie left right, front back).
6) Remove old pot, put your free hand over the bottom of the plant (in this case the top since its upside down) and place in the new pot centered. If you followed the previous watering step, no soil should fall.
7) Add more soil to the surrounding edges of the "mold" in the new pot until its completely submerged.
8) Water well, I usually use half the amount of water that the pot is rated for (ie 3 gal pot, flush with 1.5gal) focusing the water at the edge where the "mold" meets the new soil.

I hope I didn't bore you with the details I just wanted to make sure that you understood the steps needed to make it a painless process. Good luck brotha, your going great.
 
Corxrew

Corxrew

Well-Known Member
My test to see if a plant is ready to transplant is to let the soil dry out and lightly pull the plant out of the pot at the base of the stem.
If it is ready the soil will come out in the shape of the cup with relatively small effort, if it isn't the plant will lift away from the soil some, but the soil will not move.
Using this method you have to be careful not to use too much force and rip the plant out though.
 
scrapdizle

scrapdizle

Active Member
Corxrew said:
My test to see if a plant is ready to transplant is to let the soil dry out and lightly pull the plant out of the pot at the base of the stem.
If it is ready the soil will come out in the shape of the cup with relatively small effort, if it isn't the plant will lift away from the soil some, but the soil will not move.
Using this method you have to be careful not to use too much force and rip the plant out though.
Click to expand...
That's horrible advice.
 
shrigpiece

shrigpiece

Well-Known Member
Corxrew said:
My test to see if a plant is ready to transplant is to let the soil dry out and lightly pull the plant out of the pot at the base of the stem.
If it is ready the soil will come out in the shape of the cup with relatively small effort, if it isn't the plant will lift away from the soil some, but the soil will not move.
Using this method you have to be careful not to use too much force and rip the plant out though.
Click to expand...
Wow man some technique you have there.:dunce:
 
shotrocker

shotrocker

Active Member
scrapdizle said:
Transplanting can be a very simple and clean process given you take the right protocol. Like I mentioned in the previous post soil moisture is not an issue since the tops of the solo cups are smaller then most peoples palms and can easily support the medium while upside down.

How I transplant:
1) Fill the destination pots with soil so that the solo cup top is even with the new pot top so if you put the solo cup in the pot the tops are the same height.
2) Flush the current pot (solo cup) with enough water so that its completely saturated. Let sit and drain for 30 min.
3) I usually do this over the sink but you can do it anywhere you don't mind getting a little dirt on. But make sure both the new pot and bag of soil within arm reach.
4) Place the stem of the plant between your middle and ring finger and your palm on the soil. Once supported, Flip upside down.
5) With your free hand gently squeeze the middle of the pot from all 4 directions (ie left right, front back).
6) Remove old pot, put your free hand over the bottom of the plant (in this case the top since its upside down) and place in the new pot centered. If you followed the previous watering step, no soil should fall.
7) Add more soil to the surrounding edges of the "mold" in the new pot until its completely submerged.
8) Water well, I usually use half the amount of water that the pot is rated for (ie 3 gal pot, flush with 1.5gal) focusing the water at the edge where the "mold" meets the new soil.

I hope I didn't bore you with the details I just wanted to make sure that you understood the steps needed to make it a painless process. Good luck brotha, your going great.
Click to expand...
First off, Scrap, your advice is most welcome and never boring. I just want to be clear on a couple of things. I'm assuming that all this water at this time is the exception to the overwatering concerns? And, secondly, my first nute feeding, (1/4 of what it says, per your advice), should start when the plants have dried out after the transplant watering? Thanks again. I'm off to the grow store now for the pots.
One more thing; I guess I should "shorten" the couple of lanky, (stretched?) plants during this procedure?
 
R

riverchaser

Active Member
When I transplant out of solo cups, I peel the cup like a banana until I can easily lift the plant/dirt/root ball out. I tried a different method with a couple with no luck and this worked like a charm for me. Low Stress Transplant lol.

Again they look alot better than the last time, keep it up. Definitely getting on transplant time, maybe even a light feed after they become acclimated to their new pots.
 
scrapdizle

scrapdizle

Active Member
shotrocker said:
1)overwatering concerns
2)should start when the plants have dried out after the transplant watering
3)I guess I should "shorten" the couple of lanky, (stretched?) plants during this procedure?
Click to expand...
1)as long as you got drain holes and the temps get near the 80's that water will dissipate and add some humidity. expect a day or two (sometimes longer depending on how well the transplant goes) of "no grow" or stunted growth.
2)its always good after a good drenching to let the roots dry out.
3)most def, bury them until you comfortable with the stem to foliage ratio from a side prospective the buried stem will grow roots.
 
shotrocker

shotrocker

Active Member
riverchaser said:
When I transplant out of solo cups, I peel the cup like a banana until I can easily lift the plant/dirt/root ball out. I tried a different method with a couple with no luck and this worked like a charm for me. Low Stress Transplant lol. .
Click to expand...
Good idea. I'm going to practice with a plant-less cup or 2.
 
ottawaliquid

ottawaliquid

Active Member
Hey Shotrocker...

I did a couple of transplants the other day.. and took a few photos... wasn't going to post them but since transplanting was brought up again I figured I'd share what I did the other day. Not saying its perfect but it works for me!

Here it goes:

1. A little Black Domina clone that could use more space
Jan22nd 028.jpg

Supporting the little lady's stem with my hand before the flip
Jan22nd 029.jpg

The Scary part (the flip) then just tap medium out of the container.
Jan22nd 030.jpg

I normally like to see more roots but I had abused these clones so I had to do something with them.. This is where I "dust" my mycorrhizae product directly to the roots and the top of the soil in my waiting larger pot (will be in contact with roots). (Since you are using organic nutrients I would highly recommend adding some if you have access to any)
Jan22nd 031.jpg

In new happy home! 3 gallons of organic soil - good water/light feed at this point.
Jan22nd 034.jpg

*The attached photo (Below) show the roots and new soil with the dusting of the myco product that I use.*

 

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ottawaliquid

ottawaliquid

Active Member
shotrocker said:
Thanks for posting these. How much time passed between your last watering and your transplant?
Click to expand...
Not sure how much time.. I personally like the pots to be a "little" dry (so it had probably been 2 days as they were small pots).. but not bone dry.. I find the medium stays together better when it is on the dry side rather than moist I find you loose some medium.. If its the really dry the same thing happens.. but I wouldn't worry about it too much

I've heard other people say to water with a little bit before transplanting.. to each their own I guess
 
smithdav

smithdav

Well-Known Member
I'm with djmixer36 and will keep checking in.
You did a good job bringing them back, now just let them grow after the transplant!
 
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