Lumatek Zeus 600 Pro

@Moflow have you gone to their downloads section and examined the RF and EMC emmisions test reports? Components are listed there. We could argue that the frame and powersupply currently on retail product is one and the same as per that data with the led models swapped. We can surmise that the lumiled 3030 listed in same data sheet is the one they are using. The alternative for the Pro version is listed as some unknown Dongguan LEDSTAR Photoelectric Co 2835's.

If they are using different components, then surely those documents are null and void and they just keeping them as placeholders to wave in the face of authority.

Lumiled is Lumiled. Dongguan LEDSTAR, aka LUMLED. Check page 46 of rf/emc/CE 1 report. Link available via their website.

All manufacturers are faced with constraints when it comes to form, factor and function versus profitability. And lets not forget the vendors telling people they need 30 - 40W per 30cm x 30cm. Its great when you have a large light hung up out of the way.

end_of_the_tunnel said:

I think they look beautiful. But the spec for the Lumileds 3030 they currently got in them isn't upto 301B standards. So people are basically being drawn in by finish and appearance of the bars. I can build a smashing kit car, but I am not going to try sell it to you without being honest that I got a Metro engine in it.

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yep diode for diode the lumleds wont be anywhere near the samsungs no doubt about it. but surely thats why they are using 3708 of them compared to say a hlg 550 rspec which has a total diode count of 1152-301b's, to be fair the rpec is 480watt so if you added another 288 board that would make the wattages comparable at around 600watt that would bring the diode count up to 1440 for the rspec. the lumatec still has two and half times more diodes which they just run softer to claw back the efficacy.

its no different to the general to the tune of thought in the chinese quantum board knock off thread where rather than chase the latest and greatest diode and the best bins ect you go for the cheaper diodes and leaverage diode count.

i dont see lumatek as trying to hide the fact that they are using a "metro" engine to power their all be it flashy looking kit car, more they are saying hey we use a metro engine to power our kit car but you get one for each wheel! so its still quite a quick car.
dont get me wrong if someone was to copy this light exactly and replace the the lumleds with top bin samsungs 301b's chip for chip you would have a hell of a light, but i recon it would cost a fair bit more than the £750 uk i give.

Moflow said:

Lumatek say 2.7 umol/J for the 600 pro
Migro say 2.33 umols/J ?

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I don't get his numbers they're always lower than the manufacturer. Consistent Inmo, but low. I'd like to know why.

grotbags said:

yep diode for diode the lumleds wont be anywhere near the samsungs no doubt about it. but surely thats why they are using 3708 of them compared to say a hlg 550 rspec which has a total diode count of 1152-301b's, to be fair the rpec is 480watt so if you added another 288 board that would make the wattages comparable at around 600watt that would bring the diode count up to 1440 for the rspec. the lumatec still has two and half times more diodes which they just run softer to claw back the efficacy.

its no different to the general to the tune of thought in the chinese quantum board knock off thread where rather than chase the latest and greatest diode and the best bins ect you go for the cheaper diodes and leaverage diode count.

i dont see lumatek as trying to hide the fact that they are using a "metro" engine to power their all be it flashy looking kit car, more they are saying hey we use a metro engine to power our kit car but you get one for each wheel! so its still quite a quick car.
dont get me wrong if someone was to copy this light exactly and replace the the lumleds with top bin samsungs 301b's chip for chip you would have a hell of a light, but i recon it would cost a fair bit more than the £750 uk i give.

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I think most of the chinese boards are actually spread better with diodes than HLG. Also I'd say 80% are running 301B's and everything I've bought is legit top bin. I think people are kinda hating on one chinese product over another, without proof or they're cherry picking. Seems to me blurples are mostly to blame for the perception.

grotbags said:

yep diode for diode the lumleds wont be anywhere near the samsungs no doubt about it. but surely thats why they are using 3708 of them compared to say a hlg 550 rspec which has a total diode count of 1152-301b's, to be fair the rpec is 480watt so if you added another 288 board that would make the wattages comparable at around 600watt that would bring the diode count up to 1440 for the rspec. the lumatec still has two and half times more diodes which they just run softer to claw back the efficacy.

its no different to the general to the tune of thought in the chinese quantum board knock off thread where rather than chase the latest and greatest diode and the best bins ect you go for the cheaper diodes and leaverage diode count.

i dont see lumatek as trying to hide the fact that they are using a "metro" engine to power their all be it flashy looking kit car, more they are saying hey we use a metro engine to power our kit car but you get one for each wheel! so its still quite a quick car.
dont get me wrong if someone was to copy this light exactly and replace the the lumleds with top bin samsungs 301b's chip for chip you would have a hell of a light, but i recon it would cost a fair bit more than the £750 uk i give.

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Bang on the nail.

christopher jordan said:

I think most of the chinese boards are actually spread better with diodes than HLG. Also I'd say 80% are running 301B's and everything I've bought is legit top bin. I think people are kinda hating on one chinese product over another, without proof or they're cherry picking. Seems to me blurples are mostly to blame for the perception.

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It comes down to form and function. A large single frame is going to suit some. Whilst smarter more energy conscious folk are going to get those diodes spread out and hanging low. Non lighting example, Amazon is full of local vendors, who all import the same generic products to sell, even blantantly copy pasting poorly written blurb. At least Lumatek went to the bother of getting company colour matching anodising and probably put effort into deciding what type and how many led to kit the lamps out with. With the base white Lumiled 4K 80CRI that their data shows they use, the best it will put out is 189lm/W. Compare that to the Samsung LM561C which is how old? So is their choice of led based on profit to them, or cost to customer? Sure the reds bump effeciency up.

Manufacturers are going to pump out what market can take. If growers prefer to burn excess electricity transmitting light from high above the canopy,
those manufacturers are going to rub their hands, using less material to cram diodes on. And they don't pass savings on. They push the price they think buyers will swallow.

christopher jordan said:

I don't get his numbers they're always lower than the manufacturer. Consistent Inmo, but low. I'd like to know why.

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Its cause they are not apples to apples, the only thing you can compare migros numbers are his own numbers. The 2.7 numbers are from a gonio or sphere and wont be the same due to differences in how they measure. Take migros numbers as relative and also depending on fixtures formfactor.

Rocket Soul said:

Its cause they are not apples to apples, the only thing you can compare migros numbers are his own numbers. The 2.7 numbers are from a gonio or sphere and wont be the same due to differences in how they measure. Take migros numbers as relative and also depending on fixtures formfactor.

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But whos results are more user-centric. All fair and fine for the manufacturer to have lab tests done, but when that data is not something that end-user can affordably confirm or replicate? Anyone with a decent entry level PAR sensor and a wattmeter can compare results and be on same page as another user with the same measuring equipment.

There are too many manufacturers bandying PPF/µMol numbers about on their product pages, without actually quantifying what the customer will get. It borders very closely on snake-oil salesmanship. Or obfuscation by ommision.

Only a tiny number of manufacturers clearly demonstrating what their product can do in terms of efficiency when run at different power levels.
The product isn't my cup of tea, but people should go look at how photoboost strip data is presented. Very quickly and clearly available information.

end_of_the_tunnel said:

But whos results are more user-centric. All fair and fine for the manufacturer to have lab tests done, but when that data is not something that end-user can affordably confirm or replicate? Anyone with a decent entry level PAR sensor and a wattmeter can compare results and be on same page as another user with the same measuring equipment.

There are too many manufacturers bandying PPF/µMol numbers about on their product pages, without actually quantifying what the customer will get. It borders very closely on snake-oil salesmanship. Or obfuscation by ommision.

Only a tiny number of manufacturers clearly demonstrating what their product can do in terms of efficiency when run at different power levels.
The product isn't my cup of tea, but people should go look at how photoboost strip data is presented. Very quickly and clearly available information.

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More data will never hurt us. Its fairly easy to work out lower currrent ppf/j values; you usually see about 10% improvement when you half the wattage at board level. Photoboost is slightly off, probably cause it mixes white and red.

I agree on ppf/j might be missleading: adding on uv and such will bring it down even though quality of the light is up. Also so many places just use datasheets to calculate an estimate.

I think migro could be a great bit more clear what his numbers can and cannot show.

Has anyone checked out the Maxibright 660 watt led? Maybe someone with more knowledge can tell me if it's pretty much the same light as the zeus but with 60 more watts.

chronnie49 said:

Has anyone checked out the Maxibright 660 watt led? Maybe someone with more knowledge can tell me if it's pretty much the same light as the zeus but with 60 more watts.

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It has a fair bit less light per watt: the zeus pro would give more light (2.7 to 2.3 efficiency) even if it was using 60w less, the standard version would be in similar range of light (2.5 to 2.3 efficiency), but again using less power.

Rocket Soul said:

It has a fair bit less light per watt: the zeus pro would give more light (2.7 to 2.3 efficiency) even if it was using 60w less, the standard version would be in similar range of light (2.5 to 2.3 efficiency), but again using less power.

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Thanks for that.

Which light would you choose between the zeus pro and HLG 550 Rspec?

Neither, prefer building my own

chronnie49 said:

Has anyone checked out the Maxibright 660 watt led? Maybe someone with more knowledge can tell me if it's pretty much the same light as the zeus but with 60 more watts.

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Yeah we tested it. Id not stock it.

diyled said:

Yeah we tested it. Id not stock it.

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Ok thanks.

I'll order another Maxibright focus kit for next run but maybe get a small quantum board to put in the middle of them.

Just had a quick read through the thread. The more i see the harder it gets.
What im after is a belter of an LED. Well 2 of them to go in a 2.4 X 1.2 tent. Not bothered about being able to work loads of
features from my phone as that would just confuse me but still want modern bit of kit that any LED fan would be proud of.
Budget maybe about £1k per unit. What do you lot rekon ? If you were out looking for a new bit of stonking kit what would you go for ?
Figured i would ask the experts on here rather than a salesman with something he wants to shift. HELPPP.

fingerbobs said:

Budget maybe about £1k per unit. What do you lot rekon ?

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eassssyyyyy. thats a big budget. the best thing you could do is probably build a strip panel with tonnes of strips, its pretty easy and wayyyy cheaper than buying pre made. im pretty simple and i can build a strip light...plus there are loads of really useful guys here that will help.

if you dont wanna build then buy a pre made unit from @diyleduk

lukio said:

eassssyyyyy. thats a big budget. the best thing you could do is probably build a strip panel with tonnes of strips, its pretty easy and wayyyy cheaper than buying pre made. im pretty simple and i can build a strip light...plus there are loads of really useful guys here that will help.

if you dont wanna build then buy a pre made unit from @diyleduk

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Thanks mate, ive blown my mind with specs. Are modern LEDs wat for wat delivering the goods compared to the HPS ? Ive been at the 315s for while now, griding them t 800mm centers like checker board gives great cross over light and good results. BUT the summer is on its way and i fancy a change.
Does 1200wats of LED generate less heat than 1200w conventional lighting in the same space or is it the same ?
Thanks in dvance.

fingerbobs said:

Thanks mate, ive blown my mind with specs. Are modern LEDs wat for wat delivering the goods compared to the HPS ? Ive been at the 315s for while now, griding them t 800mm centers like checker board gives great cross over light and good results. BUT the summer is on its way and i fancy a change.
Does 1200wats of LED generate less heat than 1200w conventional lighting in the same space or is it the same ?
Thanks in dvance.

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same amount of heat but it acts differently to incandescents


i run around 1200w of led per 4x8 space and it smashes it, yessir.

fingerbobs said:

Thanks mate, ive blown my mind with specs. Are modern LEDs wat for wat delivering the goods compared to the HPS ? Ive been at the 315s for while now, griding them t 800mm centers like checker board gives great cross over light and good results. BUT the summer is on its way and i fancy a change.
Does 1200wats of LED generate less heat than 1200w conventional lighting in the same space or is it the same ?
Thanks in dvance.

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1200w of DE-HPS can easily be replaced with 660-800w of good, well spread, some Horticultural Spec effort, led with kess then half the ambient heat if you have a remote driver & a heck of allot less radiant heat.
Have FR or IR in your led i recommend.
Good leds are putting out Twice as much usable light then a SE-HPS , Watt for Watt.