Mycorrhiza Fungi...why you should get to know them...

Discussion in 'Organics' started by Ohsogreen, Sep 7, 2008.


    platt Well-Known Member

    Yeah nice outcome DonBrennon.

    now lets grab this hotspot, the preinfective stage
    For biocontrol in dirt mediums the development of a saprophytic stage is a prerequisite until the organism reach it specific host [host` in this case equals selective medium suitable for differentiation aKa roots or even decaying roots]
    Another thing i cant recall if its proven or suggested, is that mycorrhiza carry its own autoinhibitors [clever thing]. But the meat is that many critters ( bacteria & isolates of trichoderma in this case) can unlock that autoinhibited mood & let mycorrhiza run thru it target. All thanks to allelopathy and chemotactic nice moves
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2016
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    DonBrennon Well-Known Member

    I have become a real nerd...............I've started to find shit like this fascinating
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    elfo777 Well-Known Member

    Sorry if this has been asked before...

    I have both mycorrhiza and trichoderma harzianum. Can I mix both or shall I stick with only one?
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    dojagrower Active Member

    Can you give us an addy where to order from or a name

    calliandra Well-Known Member

    I'd say you can mix them, as they also coexist in nature, but make sure it's less trichos than mycos.
    The two apparently have this mutual inhibition process going on; the trichos inhibit myco germination, but the mycos inhibit tricho proliferation. So my reasoning is less trichos to make sure the mycos get a chance to get started.
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    platt Well-Known Member

    poor mycos, such a hard life ^
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    calliandra Well-Known Member

    Yeah I know right! haha
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    platt Well-Known Member

    page 12 rizhonaut's posts
    Jared Cox

    Jared Cox Active Member

    Make sure your soil has low levels of salt and phosphorus to promote mycorrhizal fungi... High levels of these can dehydrate fungi similar to putting table salt on a slug.

    elfo777 Well-Known Member

    Can anyone tell me how to inoculate my plants with mycos? Is it ok to put a little bit when my seeds are germinating? Or shall I wait until I plant my seedling into the soil and then water them with myco?

    calliandra Well-Known Member

    On my current grow I did both: just a pinch for germination, which should have been enough.
    But then I got weak and sprinkled the root when I went to plant it too.
    I'm still working on my trust in those tiny tiny things really being there I guess haha
    So I go with sprinkling the roots when planting for now - for my own peace of mind :bigjoint:
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    NaturalFarmer Well-Known Member

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    Wetdog Well-Known Member

    Great stuff from Rodale! ^^^

    I'm using an older technique from the same place, but for smaller amounts. This involved a bed of inoculated leeks that would be dug up,30-50% of the roots cut off and then replanted. The cavities in the CBS blocks around my raised beds are perfect, holding ~1gal of mix and native soil underneath. Onions, chives and other Alliums work as well.

    I also always use fresh mix for my container garlic and the roots get cut up and added back to the mix at harvest.

    It's really easy to grow yer own if you garden a little.

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    NaturalFarmer Well-Known Member

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    NaturalFarmer Well-Known Member


    calliandra Well-Known Member

    I think that may be just a commonly used cover crop mix, not all specifically good AM hosts. I often see grass + nitrogen fixer + brassica combos being used... so what they're saying to me is "hey! do the stuff sensible people are doing and all will be well :D"

    What was it, 85% of all plants are mycorrhizal?
    So it will be good practice in general to cut the roots of our plants back into their soil when we recycle our pot soils, if we must ;)
    I get this feeling that once we have the fungi back in our systems it will be more a question of making the best use of available resources like that, just by continually tending to them and fortifying their presence.
    What's your impression on this?
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    NaturalFarmer Well-Known Member

    I have been planting to entice whitetail on a garden plot as well and using Field peas, Hulless oat, Beet, daikon and crimson clover. The crimson clover is beautifully soft and would definitely recommend getting some.

    "We can boost fungi by boosting protozoa and the best way to do this is to plant peas in Summer. You might include three or four varieties including cowpeas, and you might toss in a sprinkle of fava beans. Boosting protozoa helps to manage bacterial overgrowth while also stimulating fungal numbers."

    "the combination of oats and crimson clover is highly mycorrhizal."

    "It has been shown that the generous, first exudations of annual rye serve as a superfood for soil life."

    "Legumes release acids that break the bond between locked-up calcium and phosphorus in the soil, and both minerals are then available to the cash crop."

    "it is essential to have a legume beneath the cereal. "

    "The daikon radish will not get much bigger than pencil-thin in this limited time frame before winter, but the first nutrients it will mine at this young stage will be boron, calcium and zinc"

    "The first exudation of winter oats serves to make phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) available. However, it does not make P and K available when it is in full growth."

    "If I was using 70 lbs of cereal rye per acre as my base and I decided to include winter barley at 10 lbs per acre then I would reduce the cereal rye at a rate of two-to-one. I would cut the cereal rye down to 50 lbs per acre. This ratio is essential because of the thick roots at the surface. However, if I was adding triticale, then it’s a one-to-one ratio. You really need to know the root dynamics. Triticale has a long skinny root, so if I add 10 lbs of triticale, I subtract 10 lbs of cereal rye."
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2016

    GangusKush Member

    I've used a few different kinds of Mycorrhizal fungi over the past few years , and I firmly believe that it's best to use both granules and wettable powder, the combo of the two, such as great white shark and mykos right at the being of every transplant will drastically reduced transplant shock, the Mycorrhizal is quite literally a secondary root system!
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    mauricem00 Well-Known Member

    I add it to my potting soil when I clean and recycle the soil. seems to help

    platt Well-Known Member



    which brand or label ?

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