New seedlings ready for outdoors and repotting help

Kannibalistics

Active Member
I'm in the same boat. I compromised with 45 gal pots (might put some on 65...maybe) and I'll be scroging them with a very low profile. I plan to strip lower growth below the screen once it fills out but that's it. If it gets out of hand I'll put another trellis on top. I'm also using a tan shade cloth wrapped car port for privacy with greenhouse plastic on top. But a shade cloth fence would suffice. You won't be sorry taking this route. Keep em sprayed to prevent mites, mold, and especially worms starting with day 1 in the sun and repeat every 2 weeks until flower has begun. Some are safe to use throughout flower but avoid smelly sprays and neem based products.
What is a good spray for them? To control insects pests and diseases
 

Jozikins

Well-Known Member
What is a good spray for them? To control insects pests and diseases
Non organic: eagle 20 for mold and mildew, avid (abamectin) or floramite for pests. They work very well but are extremely toxic. Use with horticultural oil (canola would work) and a full face respirator with proper matching organic and chemical insecticide/fungicide filters, a splash resistant body suit, and am atomizer for application. A Harbor Freight paint gun on your air compressor makes for a great 15 dollar atomizer and I recommend it for spraying anything on your plants. If you go this route I'll give you the links to the safety equipment I ordered. If you don't have any of that stuff already you're looking at 400 to 600 bucks. Do not ever use these products prior to 2 weeks before predicted flower period, or without appropriate gear. They are safe only when used properly following strict guidelines and never used indoors. Do not touch plants and avoid entering garden area for 48 hours after application.

As for organic, I'd ask around, but I like M-pede or nuke-em for mildew and pests, pyrithrim for pests, thuricide for caterpillars, and a sulfur vaporizer for mildew. Earthworm tea with chicken compost and trichoderma fungi (found in great white, zho, and plant success) also helps a lot as a general purpose and a foliar feed. Baking soda and powdered detergent work well for mildew but can dry out your plants foliage. Green cure is a premixed version you can buy in stores.

Thuricide should be used in-between chemical sprays from the second they go outside until the 3rd to 5th week of flower. Caterpillars are no joke, they'll turn a beautiful crop into hash material real fast.

I'm not fucking around this season so I'm going hardcore with chemicals. Come flower I'll go organic.
 
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Larry {the} Gardener

Well-Known Member
Your plants are looking good. But anyone can grow weed. What about a few more pictures of the pineapple? I have three of them growing at home and three at work. The one at work has a little pineapple on it.
 

Kannibalistics

Active Member
Your plants are looking good. But anyone can grow weed. What about a few more pictures of the pineapple? I have three of them growing at home and three at work. The one at work has a little pineapple on it.
The pineapple just took after about a month and a half of care, i was taking it outside for direct sunlight and a strong gust of wind had knocked it over while i was away. It gave it a few brown spots along the some of the leaves, but i was happy to see all the roots it put out. Its finally growing new foliage. How long did it take for yours to start fruiting? Any care advice and tips?
 

Larry {the} Gardener

Well-Known Member
I mix my own soils using perlite, vermiculite, peat moss, potting soil, kitty litter, mushroom compost, chicken manure compost, cow manure compost and cotton compost. I amend that with lime, Epson salts, blood meal, bone meal, coffee grounds, organic fertilizers, bulk farm fertilizers and time release fertilizers. So far no two mixes has been exactly the same, but 2 five gallon buckets of peat moss and 1 each of the potting soil, kitty litter and the composts is kind of a baseline. Then 12 cups coffee grounds, 4 cups lime, 1 cup Epson salts, 1 cup vermiculite, 4 cups perlite {more if planting into heavy clay soils}, 1 cup blood meal, 2 cups bone meal and 4 cups each of four organic {3-3-3 and similar} fertilizers. The next part is determined by how much of the mix I'll be using per plant. {ie... how far will I have to carry it} For the long walk plants, I mix it really hot, and use a third of a bucket per plant. For close by plants,they might get 2-3 buckets each. So for an average mix, I add 1 cup 15-0-15, 2 cups 13-13-13, 2 cups 10-10-10, 4 cups 6-6-6, 4 cups 13-7-13 time release and 4 cups 19-6-12 time release.
 

Larry {the} Gardener

Well-Known Member
The pineapple just took after about a month and a half of care, i was taking it outside for direct sunlight and a strong gust of wind had knocked it over while i was away. It gave it a few brown spots along the some of the leaves, but i was happy to see all the roots it put out. Its finally growing new foliage. How long did it take for yours to start fruiting? Any care advice and tips?
It takes a couple of years to grow fruit. I cover the ground with mulch. This helps when I forget to water them. I have inside plants I tend at work, but I forget about the pineapples.

IMG_0123.JPG IMG_0121.JPG
 

Kannibalistics

Active Member
And of course, the ones I'm here for in the first place. I potted them in 1 gallon pots with equal parts ocean forest and happy frog. I haven't fed them anything yet, but bought the maxsea line. I plan to use natural predators i suppose like i do with the rest of the garden. Lacewings, ladybugs, and praying mantis all have helped me a lot in the past. I will pot up to 5 gallon containers once i see root growth. Also, when can i top them? When should i start feeding them?
20160604_093529_HDR.jpg 20160604_093537.jpg 20160604_093529_HDR.jpg 20160604_093537.jpg
 

Kannibalistics

Active Member
It takes a couple of years to grow fruit. I cover the ground with mulch. This helps when I forget to water them. I have inside plants I tend at work, but I forget about the pineapples.

View attachment 3699502 View attachment 3699503
Looks like yours are in ground? I can't do that here, they won't survive the winter. Im currently working on sprouting a coconut Palm as well.

Have you ever seen a Pothos grown in a deep water culture bin? That's my next venture. I saw one that after two years, looked like something that came out of a rainforest. Really thick vines and HUGE leaves. Looked almost nothing like ordinary house cared pothos plants.
 

Larry {the} Gardener

Well-Known Member
Looks like yours are in ground? I can't do that here, they won't survive the winter. Im currently working on sprouting a coconut Palm as well.

Have you ever seen a Pothos grown in a deep water culture bin? That's my next venture. I saw one that after two years, looked like something that came out of a rainforest. Really thick vines and HUGE leaves. Looked almost nothing like ordinary house cared pothos plants.
Yes mine are in the ground. We have a night or two in the low twenties most years. Very rare to get down to teens. We cover ours with plastic on the cold nights.
 

Kannibalistics

Active Member
I'm in the same boat. I compromised with 45 gal pots (might put some on 65...maybe) and I'll be scroging them with a very low profile. I plan to strip lower growth below the screen once it fills out but that's it. If it gets out of hand I'll put another trellis on top. I'm also using a tan shade cloth wrapped car port for privacy with greenhouse plastic on top. But a shade cloth fence would suffice. You won't be sorry taking this route. Keep em sprayed to prevent mites, mold, and especially worms starting with day 1 in the sun and repeat every 2 weeks until flower has begun. Some are safe to use throughout flower but avoid smelly sprays and neem based products.
Why avoid neem based products? What about just neem oil?
 

Jozikins

Well-Known Member
Why avoid neem based products? What about just neem oil?
Neem oil and neem based products have a very strong flavor and odor that sticks to the plant for a long time. It's fine for young plants but I wouldn't use it anywhere near the flower period. Azamax can be used in early flower with success sometimes, but any oil you spray on your plants will be there in some residual form to the end. Anything on your hash material will end up in your hash. Keeping clean trim and popcorn nugs for extraction is important because you recover a lot of product that will pay for your grow expenses by itself. Not to mention nugs that smell like neem aren't worth a dime, and neem is nutrient rich and reflective so you can burn your plants if you aren't careful.
 

IvyPirate

Well-Known Member
And of course, the ones I'm here for in the first place. I potted them in 1 gallon pots with equal parts ocean forest and happy frog. I haven't fed them anything yet, but bought the maxsea line. I plan to use natural predators i suppose like i do with the rest of the garden. Lacewings, ladybugs, and praying mantis all have helped me a lot in the past. I will pot up to 5 gallon containers once i see root growth. Also, when can i top them? When should i start feeding them?
View attachment 3699498 View attachment 3699500 View attachment 3699498 View attachment 3699500
I found this topping "tutorial" on GrowWeedEasy.com- main tip: wait for the plant to grow past the sixth node, then cut back to the third node

http://www.growweedeasy.com/mainlining-nugbuckets

I just topped one plant will do another this week; since we are coming up on the solstice and gradually shorter days, I don't know if I will be able to top again and go from 2 to 4 colas, we will have to wait and see...
 

Jozikins

Well-Known Member
And of course, the ones I'm here for in the first place. I potted them in 1 gallon pots with equal parts ocean forest and happy frog. I haven't fed them anything yet, but bought the maxsea line. I plan to use natural predators i suppose like i do with the rest of the garden. Lacewings, ladybugs, and praying mantis all have helped me a lot in the past. I will pot up to 5 gallon containers once i see root growth. Also, when can i top them? When should i start feeding them?
View attachment 3699498 View attachment 3699500 View attachment 3699498 View attachment 3699500
Feed after about 3 to 4 weeks or once they stop growing as fast and as green.

Your plants are pretty small so don't worry about topping, you want to get those plants as big as possible as fast as possible.
 

Larry {the} Gardener

Well-Known Member
I found this topping "tutorial" on GrowWeedEasy.com- main tip: wait for the plant to grow past the sixth node, then cut back to the third node

http://www.growweedeasy.com/mainlining-nugbuckets

I just topped one plant will do another this week; since we are coming up on the solstice and gradually shorter days, I don't know if I will be able to top again and go from 2 to 4 colas, we will have to wait and see...
I always try to wait for 6 nodes. If the plant is a good grower, I will wait until 8 or 9, then top at the 6th node. Either way will work. And as long as there is a good growth rate, you can top until near when it starts flowering. You can guesstimate when that will be by your hours of dark and the strains you are running. The average hours of daylight before flowering starts on the average strain is less than 13 1/2 hours. {or said another way, more than 10 1/2 hours of dark}
 

Kannibalistics

Active Member
Feed after about 3 to 4 weeks or once they stop growing as fast and as green.

Your plants are pretty small so don't worry about topping, you want to get those plants as big as possible as fast as possible.
I did the half OF and half HF soil mix, as well as added about 6 tbsp of mykos pure mycorrhizal inoculant to 3 gallons of soil. Other than that just tap water. They seem to be growing slowly, however i think that's from them trying to fill root space first, post-transplant. But i am eager to give em some food. I was planning on doing a 1/4 strength at the next watering, but we had some rain come and it moistened the soil again. Is this too early? Too much? They are currently growing their leaves that contain all seven. 4th node i believe?
 

Jozikins

Well-Known Member
I did the half OF and half HF soil mix, as well as added about 6 tbsp of mykos pure mycorrhizal inoculant to 3 gallons of soil. Other than that just tap water. They seem to be growing slowly, however i think that's from them trying to fill root space first, post-transplant. But i am eager to give em some food. I was planning on doing a 1/4 strength at the next watering, but we had some rain come and it moistened the soil again. Is this too early? Too much? They are currently growing their leaves that contain all seven. 4th node i believe?
They shouldn't need any food yet, young plants don't eat heavy, once their roots establish it'll speed way up so I would wait a little longer before feeding, but a root tonic would help. Young plants like being good and moist, but don't get impatient and over water because you wanna use your new nutrients. Too much fertilizer can slow down your plants and burn them up. 1/4 strength probably wouldn't hurt but give them 1 more week.

As far as that damage goes you'll wanna make some observations and use a handheld microscope to check for pests top and especially bottom of leaves. That look like white flies or thrips, but it could be from your plant sweating. Maybe aphids but it looks like white flies which are easy to spot.
 
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