New to LEDs Need Advice

Nutty sKunK

Well-Known Member
Not really I’m finding.

running this at the same kind of temps my HID was running at.

Ambient room temp around 25C that’s measure at the side of the room and my fan controller is set to 25C with the sensor right by the temp gauge.
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It’s a more general thing than a must. 25c is good but for growing in a tent when the room it sits in is cooler the LED can’t heat the leaf surfaces.

I don’t know exactly but it’s a combination of light intensity and temperature.

I’ve suffered big calcium deficiencies when my light was at 100% at 24-25c. The light is stupidly bright for the tent anyways but now it’s only at 21c in the tent. Switching back to CMH for my winter grows as it makes no sense to spend 3x more heating my room than running the light lol
 
I am not sure why you quoted me to begin with, and it is not that i am not a fan of par meters.
The op was looking for advice on a light for a 9x9 and i replied to someone that told him all he needed was 600w for flower and a par meter..

My apologies to the op for muddying up the thread,
Not a problem guys opposing view points encourage knowledge. Just keep it civil. I appreciate all I'm learning a lot.
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member
It’s a more general thing than a must. 25c is good but for growing in a tent when the room it sits in is cooler the LED can’t heat the leaf surfaces.

I don’t know exactly but it’s a combination of light intensity and temperature.

I’ve suffered big calcium deficiencies when my light was at 100% at 24-25c. The light is stupidly bright for the tent anyways but now it’s only at 21c in the tent. Switching back to CMH for my winter grows as it makes no sense to spend 3x more heating my room than running the light lol
I know what you mean.

I’ve blocked off my external intakes (with bags and elastic bands lol) which helps along with my fan controller.

personally I haven’t seen any deficiencies running 100% coco and feeding every couple of hours.

I add an extra 0.2EC of Calmag anyway as I’ve found over the years my grows need it due to the source water (I even use soft water A/B) whether I’m using HID or not as the case is now.

B366F9C2-83BC-46D4-8F53-2CAFF6573AB1.jpeg
 

Lenin1917

Well-Known Member
It’s a more general thing than a must. 25c is good but for growing in a tent when the room it sits in is cooler the LED can’t heat the leaf surfaces.

I don’t know exactly but it’s a combination of light intensity and temperature.

I’ve suffered big calcium deficiencies when my light was at 100% at 24-25c. The light is stupidly bright for the tent anyways but now it’s only at 21c in the tent. Switching back to CMH for my winter grows as it makes no sense to spend 3x more heating my room than running the light lol
I run my veg tent with mh on 24/7 through the winter for the same reason. Exhaust duct runs out by the mesh intake vent on my flower tent which also gets the heat off the dehumidifier. Trying to limit my heater use with price of gas now.
 

Southernontariogrower

Well-Known Member
Id go with 4 x 400 to 600 watt quality leds. Unless supplimenting then go with 4 x 1000w leds. Can go 700w or 800w is your choice and up to your environment.
 
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TwitchVee

Active Member
Judging by the coverage of my SF-7000 in a 5x5 space, you'll need 1260 watts actual draw to cover an 8x4 area, so probably even more to flower your spaace
 

Milky Weed

Well-Known Member
If your unsure lots of youtubers run par tests on the more popular lights, par means photosynthetically active radiation. Theres one out there for the EZ-8 from that cocoforcannabis guy. His name is Dr.Mj Coco on the tube.
 

m4s73r

Well-Known Member
I run 2 x5 600 watt ChilLed Growcraft over my 4x4 beds in 5x5 tents. Not sure you need the x6 1000 watt. x5s put 1k par down at 18 inches. I mean you could put more light down, but you will need c02 to utilize it. They are easy to put together. I put 2 together and hung em in like a hour.
Average PPFD @24'' is 887 µmol/(m2s). At $800 shipped they a good deal. They can also be upgraded. Ive considered getting the extra light bar and putting them in. If I ever do C02 in a sealed room, I will. IMO that is the best thing about ChilLed. You can upgrade the light, order parts, and repair it. If new LED tech comes out, I could order new boards and wire them in.

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PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
I run 2 x5 600 watt ChilLed Growcraft over my 4x4 beds in 5x5 tents. Not sure you need the x6 1000 watt. x5s put 1k par down at 18 inches. I mean you could put more light down, but you will need c02 to utilize it. They are easy to put together. I put 2 together and hung em in like a hour.
Average PPFD @24'' is 887 µmol/(m2s). At $800 shipped they a good deal. They can also be upgraded. Ive considered getting the extra light bar and putting them in. If I ever do C02 in a sealed room, I will. IMO that is the best thing about ChilLed. You can upgrade the light, order parts, and repair it. If new LED tech comes out, I could order new boards and wire them in.

View attachment 5028957
Nice. I'm a huge fan of ChilLed. That's gonna be my next light. Interesting what you did with that fan.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
It works for me. I do have it blowing up when im blooming but down for veg. After 250 bucks in fans over 2 years. Im happy with a $15 fix.
I have 2 Lasco fans like that and 3 little Honeywell's in my closet. I still have the screens on mine though. Is there a reason you took them off? Easier to clean is all I can think.
 

m4s73r

Well-Known Member
Thats it exactly. Easier to clean, less surface area blocking air flow. I took them off to clean the fans and my wife was like, your not putting those back on are you?
 
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