Nute burn and Potassium Deficiency or just nute burn?

Also its always a good idea to back the light off when there sick.
Your second pic I see what appears to be blackish spots on new growth,makes me think pH is too low.Not sure.

UrbanGreenThumb said:

So this may sound odd but you have to keep in mind this is for slow release dry organic amendments, so my ph is between 6.2-6.8 but mostly 6.5-6.8. And with dry amendments you are not supposed to have run off because the amendments do not product salt build up, so I do not measure the ppm of run off

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A little isn't going to hurt anything,Just curious what it would be since your using dry amendments.It may provide a clue?

Pending your situation you can easily fix them by changing them to bottle feed but they'll have to stay that way.You cant go back to dry.

myke said:

Pending your situation you can easily fix them by changing them to bottle feed but they'll have to stay that way.You cant go back to dry.

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Unfortunately I cannot switch to bottled nutes because I need to be away from home sometimes 2 weeks at a time and it's much easier to have friends just water the plants than mix nutes and feed them. So from the research Ive done, its not go to go below 6.2 with organic dry amends because it starts killing good stuff in the medium. But I can try going on the lower end and ph'ing around 6.2 to see how it goes.

With this being coco and we know it strips Ca and Mg away plus LED light,I know the Dr Earth has lime in it but maybe its not enough?I know with peat based medium we add dolomite lime for calmag.

Its a tricky deal growing with dry in coco.

myke said:

With this being coco and we know it strips Ca and Mg away plus LED light,I know the Dr Earth has lime in it but maybe its not enough?I know with peat based medium we add dolomite lime for calmag.

Its a tricky deal growing with dry in coco.

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I do have bottled Cal/Mag I can feed them if thats what you think the issue is.

UrbanGreenThumb said:

I do have bottled Cal/Mag I can feed them if thats what you think the issue is.

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That would probably help or at least worth a try.When they were vegging did you add any?Did they ever go yellow between the veins?
I have no idea if bottled calmag can be added to your dry.Perhaps a search first.Good luck.

Your also using RO water...... hmmm, Something to think about.Tap will usually have some ca/mg in it.

myke said:

Your also using RO water...... hmmm, Something to think about.Tap will usually have some ca/mg in it.

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Yes I did use cal/mag during veg and yes I can add bottled to dry amends. No yellowing btw veins. I stopped adding cal/mag once I got to flowering since I thought thats what you are supposed to do. But maybe I should keep adding in through flower. I've heard you can't really overfeed with cal or mag so, it wouldn't hurt to try I guess

Pending on the N of your calmag but I usually use it up to week 7-8 pending on the strain. I use the GH one it’s 1-0-0

UrbanGreenThumb said:

Yes I did use cal/mag during veg and yes I can add bottled to dry amends. No yellowing btw veins. I stopped adding cal/mag once I got to flowering since I thought thats what you are supposed to do. But maybe I should keep adding in through flower. I've heard you can't really overfeed with cal or mag so, it wouldn't hurt to try I guess

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OH YES you can use too much Ca or Mag. i have seen both.
Dry food and bottle food can be mixed , no problem at all. (only problem is that you have no idea when or what the dry food is releasing. In a moist environment with a decent ph , its going to break down the dry stuff quicker and better vs over and under watering.)

Are you in 100% coco ?
Using RO water is a big deal in my opinion. you have to add stuff back to it before even testing it or the test will be false. Most folks on this forum do not understand how a ppm meter and a ph meter work and exactly what and how they read ppm and ph, therefore your getting good info and bad info all in one. You cannot change the ph of your medium in a short period of time (a couple months) unless you are in 100% hydro medium like lava rock or perlite. Coco is not hydro at ALL but can be treated as such and some can get away with it.

If you are using 100% coco then yes add some calmag to every other feeding or more. IF the ph is between 5.5 and 7 in your medium then they should be drinking fast.... how long does it take to dry up in how big of pot ? What did you give them on your last two waterings ?

also , i would like a pic of the size of the overall plant or at least a guess ?
2 gallons is tiny for dry food to work good but that should not be a major factor. 2 gal , does mean you are watering a lot without food..... coco and RO and lots of water with no food.....yes i think they need a heavy dose of food.

UrbanGreenThumb said:

So this may sound odd but you have to keep in mind this is for slow release dry organic amendments, so my ph is between 6.2-6.8 but mostly 6.5-6.8. And with dry amendments you are not supposed to have run off because the amendments do not product salt build up, so I do not measure the ppm of run off

Click to expand...

This statement is kinda off too. i am with you in not needing a bunch of runoff but organic food and chemical food is the same when the organic matter is broken down to an edible form. Thus making it a "salt" just like chemical foods. some organic matter needs the microbes to break it down to a "salt" and some organic matter is broken down into a salt simply by moisture. And then some matter just breaks down way faster then others so its really tough to get a water only grow going without the help of tried and trued soils/amendments.

getogrow said:

OH YES you can use too much Ca or Mag. i have seen both.
Dry food and bottle food can be mixed , no problem at all. (only problem is that you have no idea when or what the dry food is releasing. In a moist environment with a decent ph , its going to break down the dry stuff quicker and better vs over and under watering.)

Are you in 100% coco ?
Using RO water is a big deal in my opinion. you have to add stuff back to it before even testing it or the test will be false. Most folks on this forum do not understand how a ppm meter and a ph meter work and exactly what and how they read ppm and ph, therefore your getting good info and bad info all in one. You cannot change the ph of your medium in a short period of time (a couple months) unless you are in 100% hydro medium like lava rock or perlite. Coco is not hydro at ALL but can be treated as such and some can get away with it.

If you are using 100% coco then yes add some calmag to every other feeding or more. IF the ph is between 5.5 and 7 in your medium then they should be drinking fast.... how long does it take to dry up in how big of pot ? What did you give them on your last two waterings ?

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The medium is about 90% coco and 10% perlite. With dry amends it is tricky for the reasons you said which is why I have been adding bottled nutes slowly, trying to avoid additional nute burn

I always test ph after adding anything to my RO, after a few hours of the mix percolating in my reservoir.

The ladies are ready to be watered every day to every other day, during their stretch it was everyday with a lot of water needed.

Current feeding with bottle nutes (just until the new top dressed dry amends start releasing into the soil): 2ml/g silicia 0-0-4, 3ml/g cal/mag 2-0-0, 3 ml/g GH Mirco 5-0-1, 2 ml/g Koolbloom 0-10-10. Brings the total npk to 21-20-31 at 1ml/g (hopefully that made sense haha) ph'ed to 6.5

getogrow said:

also , i would like a pic of the size of the overall plant or at least a guess ?
2 gallons is tiny for dry food to work good but that should not be a major factor. 2 gal , does mean you are watering a lot without food..... coco and RO and lots of water with no food.....yes i think they need a heavy dose of food.

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Heres a few pics after some defoliating the other day. The canopy is currently 17"-19" between all 3 plants.

myke said:

With this being coco and we know it strips Ca and Mg away plus LED light,I know the Dr Earth has lime in it but maybe its not enough?I know with peat based medium we add dolomite lime for calmag.

Its a tricky deal growing with dry in coco.

Click to expand...

I do not understand your comment about the LED lights, what do they cause the plants to do?

getogrow said:

This statement is kinda off too. i am with you in not needing a bunch of runoff but organic food and chemical food is the same when the organic matter is broken down to an edible form. Thus making it a "salt" just like chemical foods. some organic matter needs the microbes to break it down to a "salt" and some organic matter is broken down into a salt simply by moisture. And then some matter just breaks down way faster then others so its really tough to get a water only grow going without the help of tried and trued soils/amendments.

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It might be worth it for me to do a mid-grow flush with just RO since I have been using bottle nutes in addition to dry, before doing my final top dressing on the plants

UrbanGreenThumb said:

It might be worth it for me to do a mid-grow flush with just RO since I have been using bottle nutes in addition to dry, before doing my final top dressing on the plants

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Add calmag if ya do.

UrbanGreenThumb said:

I do not understand your comment about the LED lights, what do they cause the plants to do?

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Theres been a few threads,basically the intensity of LED causes Ca/Mg deficiency's.

myke said:

Add calmag if ya do.

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Calm/mag in the flush? Isn't the point to get rid of the build ups and not include something that'll add to it? (I'm not being as smart ass, I just don't know)