Optimal DIY setup for the 12 plant medical limit???? Put ur headz 2gether AZ<3

Philosophist said:

I am leaning toward something like this:

A rubbermade tub with three Hydrotron pots in each tub. Then starting a tub of three every three weeks, perpetual style^^

3weeks of veg in DWC should be pretty good, and 9 weeks of flower hopefully will be good for most strains.

So ill need 5 tubs(4 to be used in growing and one to switch out fresh nutes etc.)
air pumps, air stones, tubing, and??????

Question: how will i keep the water cool? Or will the not be an issue?
I hear i can just pop am iced water bottle n there and be GTG?

Click to expand...

combatdoc0315 said:

It would be good to hear from somebody who has been using a DWC for their grow, to get their opinion.. but from what i have read everywhere, water is best around 68-70 degrees for oxygen. I guess there are a couple DIY water coolers out there, made from buying a cheap office type water cooler, and using the cooling component of it.. and I did see they part about using frozen water bottles to bring temps down. Looks like there were a ton of people arguing, but there's always more than one way to do things. They also suggested that you dont use black buckets since they draw in and retain heat. I think using the aluminum tape from the link I posted earlier, with the white buckets seems like the best option for buckets as far as reflecting the light and heat away from the buckets..

Click to expand...

Philosophist said:

Ok so if DWC vegges faster does it Flower faster too?

If the only thing that makes DWC "bad" is teh extra work i might try that, the improved performance intreigs me;P

Eb or DWC..maybe ill flip a coin

Click to expand...

irieie said:

nothing will make your plants flower faster......../QUOTE]

Ever hear of phytochrome manipulation?

Click to expand...

BeaverHuntr said:

There are some DIY set ups you can find for cooling the res but I'm not into tearing shit apart.

Click to expand...

IVIars said:

irieie said:

nothing will make your plants flower faster......../QUOTE]

Ever hear of phytochrome manipulation?

Click to expand...

I never have the only thing I heard of for faster bloom ttimes is Co2 but even then its only a couple weeks and I really didnt harvest any earlier than anticipated by using co2.

Click to expand...

Philosophist said:

ya so Beaver if i decide to go DWC wanna help a brother out I just DONT want to fuck up huge, im cool with having a learning curve, but i want successful grows !

Maybe ill do half and half.... 6 soil-6 DWC

I like this thread, thanx for all your help this far guys.


Hopefull we can come up with a few setup to maximize production for AZ patient....we wont out grow anyone unless we are all competent growers with good cycles

Click to expand...

IVIars said:

http://www.thcfarmer.com/forums/f9/phytochrome-manipulation-29747/index15.html
And I think there is a thread on RIU about it also.

Imo the bulb spectrum matters more than par watts or lumens output.


I always thought co2 was to increase yield and bud size, not flower times. I also cut the co2 levels alot at the end of flower to help stop ethelyene production. (I know its spelled wrong, but im baked right now so i dont care)

Click to expand...

IVIars said:

Ever hear of phytochrome manipulation?

Click to expand...

Phytochromes are protein molecules that harbor a chromophore, a color-absorbing molecule. Depending on the wavelength of light striking the plant surface, the phytochromes are converted between different states or forms. When the phytochromes receive red light (660nm) they become the Pfr type, which is active and allow flowering to proceed. If far-red light (730nm) is detected the phytochrome becomes the Pr type. The Pr type is a biologically inactive form and so flowering cannot proceed. An indoor gardener can use this principle to initiate flowering even in a light cycle of 14 or more hours. During the dark period of a plant&#8217;s life, they can be given a brief pulse of red light. This changes the Pr type into the Pfr form and allows flowering to begin. Interestingly, these same phytochrome proteins play a crucial role in seed germination.
where was the part about speeding up the flowering process?

Click to expand...

Florigen isnt well understood. But we do know it is effected by the type of phytochrome. Phytochrome is a pigment/flourophore that changes its type depending on whether it recieves red or infrared light. Red light converts phytochrome to the version that stops flowering. IR makes phytochrome the flowering type. Also naturally phtochrome will convert from the nonflowering to flowering type on its own. Exposed to any kind of light or not. This is why long dark periods promote flowering. All sativa and indica strains have this phytochrome complex. But diff strains need less darkness to flower so if you bred the right strains you could get a strain that would flower OPTIMALLY at 14 hrs. You can get most plants to flower at 14 hours light but not optimally, they take much longer.

You could also get a IR light/emitter. Then right when your lights turn off you could turn on the IR. This would speed the conversion of phtochrome from Nonflowering type to flowering type. You would only need to expose them to IR for 2 hours +/- (you need to experiment). Doing this I imagine you could run close to 20 hrs light.

Finally you could just breed in ruderalis strains. They dont depend on phytochromes to flower, they use another mechanism that works off of age. This is what makes the lowryders autoflower under 24hr light. The disadvantage is that ruderalis is very low yielding and the trait is passed on to lowryder relatives.

Hope all that typing helps, Lamp

Click to expand...