Organic no till, probiotic, knf, jadam, vermicomposting, soil mixes, sips etc... Q & A

Discussion in 'Organics' started by hyroot, Oct 11, 2017.


    Tyleb173rd Well-Known Member

    Shipping is always the killer.

    Fastslappy Well-Known Member

    Build a soil u get killed shipping anything that is in a large bag
    I look local feed stores as they have alot what build a soil shipS
    malted barley, malted corn get that at the home brewery store they now have malted whole grain rice now too
    Sproutin grains ..feed store get whole grain , u might have to screen it but at $14 in a 50 lb bag
    Lightgreen2k and Tyleb173rd like this.

    keepsake Well-Known Member

    I mulch with straw and now have gnat problem.
    I've released 4,000 hypoaspis miles into my 15gal pot but it's not working.
    What else can I do?

    Lightgreen2k Well-Known Member

    First Plant is •Lemon Dawg 《Lemon Tree x Chem4IBL》
    Second Plant Double Dough
    SourDouble x <FPOGxOgkb>
    Amongst many others..
    GroErr likes this.

    hyroot Well-Known Member

    10 gal is fine for mothers

    Sips mimic nature. The resi and wicking pot or medium acts as the water table below the ground surface wicking water up through soil to trees and plants in the wild.


    Yes i have worms in my pots and i top water when the top layer dries a bit. But i water just enough to wet the top layer.

    I add a splash of labs and flower power to the resi. Top feed every 4 -5 days. Each time alternate water, labs, flower power. Sometimes swap plain water for sst. If i don't have any malted barley seed to top dress.

    For veg i just top homemade castings
    Occasional alfalfa / kelp tea.
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2017

    Lightgreen2k Well-Known Member

    Umm there is a thread called the sub irrigated planters thread. It is detailed and has many sip designs
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    Greenthumbs256 Well-Known Member

    So does the chems that you put in the res not affect your organic soil?

    hyroot Well-Known Member

    I don't use any chems at all. Re read my last post. I add a splash of 2 different ferments to the resi. Labs - lactic acid bacteria / lactobacillus and flower power - lacto based ferment (fermented fruits)
    Greenthumbs256 and DonTesla like this.

    Greenthumbs256 Well-Known Member

    K thanks I thought those were chems my fault I'm going to research them and find out what they are and use for, thanks you. Today I potted my soil for my mother plants been busting ass all day but everything looks beautiful just gotta wait for the cover crop to grow in and I still have to purchase worms to go in the pots! 1510967053618794648300.jpg
    Tyleb173rd likes this.

    Greenthumbs256 Well-Known Member

    This will be my first no till ever plan to have 2 mothers in no till and pull clones veg a few weeks then Trans into 5g smart pots and flower! I'm still confused tho about Re planting in the no till. I know each mother will live at least 6 months to a year in the veg room eventually I'm going to have to flower them. But when u do and chop them down there should a few inch round stalk should I cut it out and root ball too or add bokashi maybe and let it eat away? I'd like to have a fast as possible turn around on those no till. But don't want to disturbe everything ice worked so hard to make. But I also don't wanna let the pot sit for 2 months just for the stem to rot and dissapear! Plz help me with this lol.

    Greenthumbs256 Well-Known Member

    CM171102-204751002.jpg heres my recipie i also have koasgi in there
    Also is it nessesary to have a barley mulch or something if I'm growing in living cover crop?
    Chunky Stool

    Chunky Stool Well-Known Member

    Are things that grew underground generally bad for worm bins? (potatoes, carrots, onions, radishes, etc)

    We briefly discussed potatoes & carrots but I'm wondering if it's a broader trend.

    DonTesla Well-Known Member

    Some of my tips for fighting fungus gnats:
    1. can use Diatomaceous Earth Rocks i.e. diatomite to create a 2" sharp, life-cycle barrier.
    2. can also use thick slices of potato to lure the babies, then discard as they gather. (Be sure to use at least one inch thick slices, if too thin they will dry fast and then the larvae won't stay confident in it as a grounds for growing up)
    3. can dry the top a bit then reinoculate with bacteria dominated tea.
    4. can mist herb waters they don't like.
    5. can set yellow sticky traps (even DIY ones work, they also like blue)
    6. can use Rove Beetles (aka Dolotia Coriaria)
    7. can use NEMS (Latin: Steinernema feltia)
    8. can plant organic garlic cloves
    9. Roots of French Marigolds are toxic to bad nematodes and many larvae
    10. Pyrethrum companion plants may also aid
    @keepsake, et al.

    Amazon Blaze and Greenthumbs256 like this.
    Chunky Stool

    Chunky Stool Well-Known Member

    I got a good deal on a giant bag of "Gnat Nix" and will be giving it a try soon.
    Reviews on Amazon are mixed.
    It's made by the folks who make Growstone so it probably retains some water and also raises PH a tad (calcium carbonate).
    I bet it's no better than other things that smother the soil -- sand, perlite, pea gravel, non-clumping kitty litter, etc.
    But the price was right, so why not? I'm a sucker for a good deal... :eyesmoke:
    Greenthumbs256 likes this.
    Chunky Stool

    Chunky Stool Well-Known Member

    I forgot to mention another tip for fungus gnats: lots of airflow, 24/7.
    The little fuckers can't fly worth a shit so good airflow will keep them grounded. Only peel one side of yellow sticky pads then put them on top of your soil & on the floor. When they aren't sticky anymore, peel the other side & flip em. Moisture isn't a problem.
    Another option is DE, but it doesn't work unless it stays dry.
    DonTesla likes this.

    hyroot Well-Known Member

    Top dressing quality worm castings or non manure compost works on gnats. They will be gone within a week
    DonTesla likes this.

    hyroot Well-Known Member

    cover crops are a living mulch.

    thats a bit of over kill in your mix.

    you don't need nth gypsum and oyster shell flour. They do the same thing so choose one.

    Dolomite lime takes up to 2 years to break down so that's useless. Take that out

    Diatomaceous earth just clumps up and clogs soil when it gets wet. Take that out.

    you don't need blood meal, bone meal, soft rock phophate and guanos with fish bone meal. You could just use crab shell meal or shrimp shell meal or both instead of all those.

    If you already mixed your soil. make sure you cook it for 2 months minimum. 3 months would be better. Layer it like super soil
    Greenthumbs256 likes this.

    hyroot Well-Known Member

    I think carrots are fine. Onions, and radishes probably not
    DonTesla likes this.

    Greenthumbs256 Well-Known Member

    Some of that stuff I haven't read added like dolomite lime haven't used it in a year my soil is 2 years old that's just what I have used in the past. And I will keep that in mind for my next run when I reamend the 3 and 5g pots. And my soul did cook for a good month n half already I've potted it but no plants in the pots for a few more weeks. Would u recommend to top dress with bokashi?
    DonTesla likes this.

    DonTesla Well-Known Member

    I wasn't talking about DE powder, though, guys. DE Rocks will scrape their soft bodied exoskeletons away and eat away at them from the outside in, and if applied thick enough can halt a lot of reproductive cycles of various pests. Every time they're wetted they release some good traces too.

    As for topdressing castings, thats a good approach too, but if already at the ideal amount in a mix (15-20% for us) then we dont like to add any extra if it can be helped. Also don't like to add once in flower, ourselves anyway, for suuuuuuuper smooth smoke is a big priority and fav for us, with the minimal amount of animal products needed to get there being the goal.

    Just something to consider.

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