The Chinese Quantum Board Knock Off Builds

Cptn

Well-Known Member
thanks for the insight! I am planning to order eight 480 watt fixtures actually. Hope that's enough to qualify for some type of discount.

As far as asking them to match/lower pricing based on another board I think I will just show them the Meiju version of the kingbrite board im looking at?

I think i just want the quantum boards with the samsung diodes and the red 660nm lights, I don't think I want to shell out on the UV+IR diodes.

Looks like meiju has that option for $236.72 vs Kingbrite's Version for $273.49

If they don't match Meiju's price should I just buy from Meiju? Or is there something about Meiju I should be considering that reflects the lower price?
The prices between Meiju and Kingbrite are so close, if you are seeing major differences, you have absolutely missed something.
The biggest price difference in any of their lines is the type of 660 red LEDs they use and how many of them on a particular fixture.
On the kingbrite store, you can compare the price between single bare QB288 board in many configurations:
For example, QB288 LM301 with 660 reds:
  • All LM301B
  • All LM301H
  • LM301B with 16 Epistar 660 reds
  • LM301H with 16 Epistar 660 reds
  • LM301B with 32 Epistar 660 reds
  • LM301H with 32 Epistar 660 reds
  • LM301B with 16 Cree 660 reds
  • LM301H with 16 Cree 660 reds
  • LM301B with 32 Cree 660 reds
  • LM301H with 32 Cree 660 reds
With a bit of math, eventually I figured out that there was no extra charge for Epistar LEDs. As a matter of fact, I suspect that it is actually cheaper for them to replace Samsung white LEDs with Epistar LEDs of any color.
What drives the cost up is premium Red LEDs like Osram and Cree.
Also, don't forget shipping which can be a way for them to easily hide costs.

Check this out:
LED price table.jpg

The price per red diode is the cost of the kits with Red LEDs, minus the cost of the same kits with NO reds, divided by (the number of reds per board x 4).

I did this a year ago, so . . .
These prices were prices quoted from sales reps for (4) 240 watt fixtures (2 QB288 boards on 10-15mm heat sink, HLG240 driver, dimmer, hangers, etc.) shipped to the US.
At the time, Meiju had a 15mm finned heatsink vs KingBrites 10mm finned heatsink.
Either way, I considered it was a wash, as both were WAY better than a flat 5mm aluminum plate, and I always planned to underdrive them anyway.

At this time last year, you got a much better deal buying KingBrite.
Notice how Meiju shipping costs increased on the orders even though the only difference was the type of LEDs on some of the boards?
Yeah . . . that's not good.

Basically, there is no "deal" out there. They have priced their components and completed kits down to the last penny of their margin.
You can pick and choose any components and put together you own "kit" and the price difference will match the kits perfectly +/- the additional cost of your changed components.

For example, with kingbrite, you could buy (2) 240 watt kits, and substitute a single HLG-480H-48AB for the (2) HLG-240s.
Look at their store and you see that they sell all those components separately.
The 240's are $46 each. The 480 is $105 each.
The total price of your order would go up $13.
It's that straight forward.

As much as possible, you need to compare apples to apples with these vendors.

Remember, many of these drivers they are bundling with their kits cannot be dimmed to zero with 0-10 volt control systems.
With Meanwell, you have to get the HLG-480-48AB or the HLG-320 constant current (not the constant voltage).
None of the 240s will dim to black.
I do not have any info on other drivers capabilities.

Editing to add:
One way you should expect to save some money (with KingBrite anyway) is on shipping when you order multiples of the same item.
Even on the specific item ad page, you can see that when you add multiples of the same item to your cart, the shipping cost does not double/triple/whatever.
I remember finding a breakpoint where the shipping "discount" stopped improving, but can't remember off the top of my head. There is definitely a sweet spot.

BTW: if you think that the Meiju with 8 Osram 660 reds falls somewhere in performance between the KB with 16 Crees and the KB with 32 Crees, you are trippin. They priced it right on the product (cheaper than the KBs) then stuck it to the customer with inflated shipping. Buyer beware.

PS: Thanks for the "Like" @Rocket Soul . . . when you like a post on LEDs, I know I better pay attention.
 
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Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
The prices between Meiju and Kingbrite are so close, if you are seeing major differences, you have absolutely missed something.
The biggest price difference in any of their lines is the type of 660 red LEDs they use and how many of them on a particular fixture.
On the kingbrite store, you can compare the price between single bare QB288 board in many configurations:
For example, QB288 LM301 with 660 reds:
  • All LM301B
  • All LM301H
  • LM301B with 16 Epistar 660 reds
  • LM301H with 16 Epistar 660 reds
  • LM301B with 32 Epistar 660 reds
  • LM301H with 32 Epistar 660 reds
  • LM301B with 16 Cree 660 reds
  • LM301H with 16 Cree 660 reds
  • LM301B with 32 Cree 660 reds
  • LM301H with 32 Cree 660 reds
With a bit of math, eventually I figured out that there was no extra charge for Epistar LEDs. As a matter of fact, I suspect that it is actually cheaper for them to replace Samsung white LEDs with Epistar LEDs of any color.
What drives the cost up is premium Red LEDs like Osram and Cree.
Also, don't forget shipping which can be a way for them to easily hide costs.

Check this out:
View attachment 4933802

The price per red diode is the cost of the kits with Red LEDs, minus the cost of the same kits with NO reds, divided by (the number of reds per board x 4).

I did this a year ago, so . . .
These prices were prices quoted from sales reps for (4) 240 watt fixtures (2 QB288 boards on 10-15mm heat sink, HLG240 driver, dimmer, hangers, etc.) shipped to the US.
At the time, Meiju had a 15mm finned heatsink vs KingBrites 10mm finned heatsink.
Either way, I considered it was a wash, as both were WAY better than a flat 5mm aluminum plate, and I always planned to underdrive them anyway.

At this time last year, you got a much better deal buying KingBrite.
Notice how Meiju shipping costs increased on the orders even though the only difference was the type of LEDs on some of the boards?
Yeah . . . that's not good.

Basically, there is no "deal" out there. They have priced their components and completed kits down to the last penny of their margin.
You can pick and choose any components and put together you own "kit" and the price difference will match the kits perfectly +/- the additional cost of your changed components.

For example, with kingbrite, you could buy (2) 240 watt kits, and substitute a single HLG-480H-48AB for the (2) HLG-240s.
Look at their store and you see that they sell all those components separately.
The 240's are $46 each. The 480 is $105 each.
The total price of your order would go up $13.
It's that straight forward.

As much as possible, you need to compare apples to apples with these vendors.

Remember, many of these drivers they are bundling with their kits cannot be dimmed to zero with 0-10 volt control systems.
With Meanwell, you have to get the HLG-480-48AB or the HLG-320 constant current (not the constant voltage).
None of the 240s will dim to black.
I do not have any info on other drivers capabilities.

Editing to add:
One way you should expect to save some money (with KingBrite anyway) is on shipping when you order multiples of the same item.
Even on the specific item ad page, you can see that when you add multiples of the same item to your cart, the shipping cost does not double/triple/whatever.
I remember finding a breakpoint where the shipping "discount" stopped improving, but can't remember off the top of my head. There is definitely a sweet spot.

BTW: if you think that the Meiju with 8 Osram 660 reds falls somewhere in performance between the KB with 16 Crees and the KB with 32 Crees, you are trippin. They priced it right on the product (cheaper than the KBs) then stuck it to the customer with inflated shipping. Buyer beware.

PS: Thanks for the "Like" @Rocket Soul . . . when you like a post on LEDs, I know I better pay attention.
Oh please don't, I'm a total like-whore :P

I appreciate anyone who makes an effort on this thread, things have been a bit quiet here lately. Is anyone doing any diy? Or is it mostly kits?
 

p0opstlnksal0t

Well-Known Member
Man those Kingbrite bar lights are super expensive. Low diode counts to boot.


MEIJIU-F8-PLUS-650W-V2. 3000k 90CRI, 586.00 with shipping by sea, door to door delivery, no custom clearance fee, no tax. The trip will take 26-35days. This is my quote from yesterday for 18 lights.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Not really china boards but I thought I'd post it anyways. Here we go for final testing of a light I wanted to finish for a long time. Shipping out to a client this week. Based around cutter solstrips:
4 channels.
Diode count:
Flower channel: 16 x 96= 1536 Nichia 2000k
Red channel: 16x11= 176 reds (9x 660 and 2x 730 per strips
Veg: 12x 96 = 1152 diodes, half 4000k half 3500k 90cri, cree 3030
UV: 12x11 = 132 uv 400nm.
Total diode count is 2996, of which 308 are mono colors.
This is made originally for a 4x4 but could be stretched for a 5x5 easily.

Personally I would probably not do this again, it takes so much time and effort connecting everything and the wiring is a lot even when using 3 stranded grounded wire to feed every strip. IMG20210719143544.jpgIMG20210719143226.jpgIMG20210719142803.jpgIMG20210719142442.jpg
 
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Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
What driver/drivers are you using?
My client is in charge of getting drivers, that way warranty is in his name which makes things easier. My best guess would be 320 driver for flower white, 240 driver for vegg and smaller drivers for mono channels.
For testing I'm using a xlg150-h: works with almost all voltages.
The alusheets do about 150w of disipation each, more if there's a bit of a breeze.
 

Moflow

Well-Known Member
My client is in charge of getting drivers, that way warranty is in his name which makes things easier. My best guess would be 320 driver for flower white, 240 driver for vegg and smaller drivers for mono channels.
For testing I'm using a xlg150-h: works with almost all voltages.
The alusheets do about 150w of disipation each, more if there's a bit of a breeze.
Nice to see a DIY light, you dont see as many builds as a few years ago, there's so many off the shelf lights to chose from now.
Ì like your red, far red strips.
This probably sounds a bit arse about face but I've been using the red, far red in my late veg, early flower tent for a few runs now and get the stretch I want, whereas when I was using the white light F strips the plants stayed too squat.
 

GBAUTO

Well-Known Member
Nice to see a DIY light, you dont see as many builds as a few years ago, there's so many off the shelf lights to chose from now.
Ì like your red, far red strips.
This probably sounds a bit arse about face but I've been using the red, far red in my late veg, early flower tent for a few runs now and get the stretch I want, whereas when I was using the white light F strips the plants stayed too squat.
I've found the same running my Vero arrays upstairs.
They have approximately 35 watts of 660's on each array that I can switch separately, and running them during veg did elongate node spacing on tight pheno's.
 

Dosmokethereefa

Active Member
I'm running a meiju 320 w fotops in a 2'8"x4' tent and a meiju 480w in a 4x4 and the only complaints I've got is TOO powerful for autos for some reason I can't find the sweet spot, no prob with phots just autos anyone else have this issue?
 

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
I'm running a meiju 320 w fotops in a 2'8"x4' tent and a meiju 480w in a 4x4 and the only complaints I've got is TOO powerful for autos for some reason I can't find the sweet spot, no prob with phots just autos anyone else have this issue?
You need to dim the light if you running your autos 18-24h so you can dim right down and still hit your desired DLI
 

Dosmokethereefa

Active Member
You need to dim the light if you running your autos 18-24h so you can dim right down and still hit your desired DLI
I'm running 20/4 what should me dli be? I've only got the ppfd app on my phone which I'm aware isn't the best but it give u a rough idea it works better with a piece of tracing/gproof paper over the screen thanks in advance
 

Dosmokethereefa

Active Member
You need to dim the light if you running your autos 18-24h so you can dim right down and still hit your desired DLI
I've been giving them 6 HR at 3/4 power then down to half for other 14 HR since the burn incident this seems to be working except for 1 plant and I think that's had a phos Def too
 

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
I'm running 20/4 what should me dli be? I've only got the ppfd app on my phone which I'm aware isn't the best but it give u a rough idea it works better with a piece of tracing/gproof paper over the screen thanks in advance
Ya I am sure the app is close enough.

if the plants are good at 12H and 480W. Then. If you run 20H you can dim down to (12/20)x480W= 288w or dimmed down to 60%. I am sure 300ish would be ok.
 

Moflow

Well-Known Member

semaphore

Well-Known Member
Been over three years since I got my meiju lights, they starting to show the toll over thousands of hours of use. I'm looking to upgrade to a new bar light, purely for ease of hanging and such.

Any recommendations, thinking about running 2/3 Geekbeast 7200's, but open to other options.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Well, I've ordered two Geeklight Monster 7200's I'll let you guys know how they work.
I've had a look-see at the Monster board and they do look nice. Only thing I miss is being able to control blue/uv and far red for end of day treatment. Basicly I'd like to by the board only and then use external drivers and timers. Most of these lights with extra channel but only one plug / driver won't let you run far red while main light is out which is my only real gripe.
Please let us know how you go and some pics if possible
 
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