i have seen it used to remove PM from infected plants post harvest
Unconventional Organics
- Thread starter malignant
- Start date
yes, without humans and aerobic beings, there would be dangerous levels of oxygen, this would act on many things in much the same way as Chlorine. Ergo you use it in Hydro as a disinfectant
not necessary in proper living organic soil. have you got a CO2 meter? may be what you see as better growth relates to you getting better at growing and not the near worthless bag of yeast you assume is offering benefits.
it is true CO2 is a plant growth limiting factor but CO2 alone is not an answer, it must be adjusted with RH% and Temps to be properly effective. Depending on the light you are using, you may also be wasting your money because the lumens you are putting out fall below the atmospheric threshold to enable an extra to be used.
EG lots of people run 1000W lamps with no extra CO2, where they dont also have LOS they are wasting money and watts. There are physical limits to growing, just because you have better covered the growing area, doesn't mean you are using 1000W efficiently. So you may see better buds at the edges, but overall you are still wasting money and power. A FACE application would be better than an Exhale bag but even this wont give you enough CO2 to use all 1000W. for mne if you use 1000W lamps you ought to be growing in a closed loop to avoid waste. if i was the boss i would legislate this too. being organic we ought to think more about the energy we use imo.
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Greenthumbs256
Well-Known Member
anyone here running sips, or proboitics?
I've been working on that myself just looking for more info like always!
I've been working on that myself just looking for more info like always!
Dr.J20
Well-Known Member
Do you count it as sips if I don't have a soil wick?
Greenthumbs256
Well-Known Member
Technically anything that pulls water up from the bottom is a sip! I think..
Dr.J20
Well-Known Member
Then I certainly run organic sips with AACT, SST, FPE etc. not really up on probiotics. I'm trying to sort out this high brix stuff right now, but i also really like the simplicity and results of my current practices so it's hard to be as intense about it. especially when I'm not really sure how sold I am on brix and pest-resistance which is one of my main interests in it.
Greenthumbs256
Well-Known Member
what I'm working on is exactly that! high brix, and simple as shit, once it's set up, it just runs itself! I can leave for 2 weeks at a time and not have to worry about anything!! check out this link, this is what I'm working on, you may find some of the info your looking for!Then I certainly run organic sips with AACT, SST, FPE etc. not really up on probiotics. I'm trying to sort out this high brix stuff right now, but i also really like the simplicity and results of my current practices so it's hard to be as intense about it. especially when I'm not really sure how sold I am on brix and pest-resistance which is one of my main interests in it.
https://www.rollitup.org/t/greens-gorilla-glue-4.979073/
Dr.J20
Well-Known Member
ANC
Well-Known Member
I have in another thread explained how calcium is crucial to the immune system for plants when it comes to fending off fungus and mold.
If you have root damage or a medium with an incorrect pH it may be hard to correct the issue, via the roots alone.
What you can do is make a foliar tea in the following way. Hardboil a few eggs in their shells, you can take out the eggs to eat, but keep the water.
use between. Top up the water with tap water until you have 1 liter of water to this add between 100 and 200ml of milk. It can be any dairy milk, fresh or expired.
The milk is a further source of calcium and is also antifungal.
Put it in a spray bottle, and spray down your plants.
This puts the antifungal milk on the outside of the plants, and increases the calcium inside the skin tissues, to bind with pectin and form a layer that the fungus can not penetrate when it sends out its runner for food and water.
If you have root damage or a medium with an incorrect pH it may be hard to correct the issue, via the roots alone.
What you can do is make a foliar tea in the following way. Hardboil a few eggs in their shells, you can take out the eggs to eat, but keep the water.
use between. Top up the water with tap water until you have 1 liter of water to this add between 100 and 200ml of milk. It can be any dairy milk, fresh or expired.
The milk is a further source of calcium and is also antifungal.
Put it in a spray bottle, and spray down your plants.
This puts the antifungal milk on the outside of the plants, and increases the calcium inside the skin tissues, to bind with pectin and form a layer that the fungus can not penetrate when it sends out its runner for food and water.
projectinfo
Well-Known Member
Skunk_E_Bud
Member
I like to fish and after cleaning my catch i'll weigh all the leftovers and add equal weight brown sugar, add some IMO4 and seal it up with one of those burping valves. There's no smell and in 6 months i have the best fish hydrolosate you can get for the price of a home depot bucket and brown sugar.
Redwood Ninja
Well-Known Member
I know this is an old post but I just laughed my ass off
Father Ramirez
Well-Known Member
Has anyone inquired about using their own feces as fertilizer? That’s gross.
Actually... human pee is not a terrible idea IN AN OUTDOOR GARDEN. There are many undigested nutrients that pass through our systems with plenty of food left in them. Peeing first thing in the morning in the vegetable garden is quite common worldwide
Birdrussell
Well-Known Member
I'm certain I'm not blowing anyone's mind by suggesting that pee and poop could be used with great success.
Not sure if this is the correct thread for this but I saw on here somewhere that somebody that uses Bat guano as his/her only nutrient. They used different guanno for each stage. I would love more infor on that. As for Aloe Vera I use it solely as a rooting agent for my clones with higher rate of success. I have used milk both as a root drench as well as foliar feed. The milk mix is great for getting rid of powdery mildew.
I have read alot about this, rule of thumb is no feces from anything that eats meat. There is a difference in microorganisms between meat eaters and herbivores. You dont wanrt to use anything from a meat eater as fertilizer on any plant that you may ingest. Or just use it on pretty plants.
Seven Trees
New Member
Apple Cider Vinegar -Home made
Kombucha - Home made
Lump Wood Char - Home made
Local Rock Dust - Personally sourced from quarry
Lava Stone (crushed) - Purchased & gathered
Eggshells - Saved
Seashells - Gathered
Seaweed - Gathered
Sea water - Gathered
Maple Leaves - Gathered
Alfalfa Meal - Purchased
Bark - Gathered, Purchased
Aloe - Home Grown
Rice - Purchased
Oats - Purchased
Bran - Purchased
Molasses - Purchased
Agave - Purchased
Honey - Purchased, Traded
Local Bee Pollen - Purchased
Compost - Purchased, Homemade
EWC - Purchased, Wild (earth-worm/ear-wig castings)
I recycle all my stalks (solid, fresh) into compost cut @ 2"-3" lengths, while dried/cured stalks (hollow) I use @ 1" lengths for potting mixes; leaves used as mulch; sifted shake used as in teas/topdresses.
Kombucha - Home made
Lump Wood Char - Home made
Local Rock Dust - Personally sourced from quarry
Lava Stone (crushed) - Purchased & gathered
Eggshells - Saved
Seashells - Gathered
Seaweed - Gathered
Sea water - Gathered
Maple Leaves - Gathered
Alfalfa Meal - Purchased
Bark - Gathered, Purchased
Aloe - Home Grown
Rice - Purchased
Oats - Purchased
Bran - Purchased
Molasses - Purchased
Agave - Purchased
Honey - Purchased, Traded
Local Bee Pollen - Purchased
Compost - Purchased, Homemade
EWC - Purchased, Wild (earth-worm/ear-wig castings)
I recycle all my stalks (solid, fresh) into compost cut @ 2"-3" lengths, while dried/cured stalks (hollow) I use @ 1" lengths for potting mixes; leaves used as mulch; sifted shake used as in teas/topdresses.
