A Sleu of Questions for the Answering - Please Don’t Be Shy

vertnugs said:

^^That right there isn't rude,being a dick,fuckboy whatever you choose to call it.It's actually a very common answer to basic ?'s

That shit under this....that....that is some one being rude,being a dick,fuckboy,the terms i choose to use.

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vertnugs said:

^^^^That right there isn't rude,being a dick,fuckboy whatever you choose to call it.It's actually a very common answer to basic ?'s

That shit under this....that....that is some one being rude,being a dick,fuckboy,the terms i choose to use.




Did you read it^^^^^that shit.No matter what any ones response was it doesn't change the way that shit does now does it?







Yes....his response to the poster that just completely wrecked him was perfect!Come on for real??

Whiny ass cry babys......that's who should actually shut the fuck up.How the fuck is every one so god damn tender in this world???




No.....get this now.....it's a doozie...you're (acting) like an asshole because some one on a forum.....didn't give you what you wanted....nothing more nothing less.That poster damn sure didn't come at you the way you went at him,agreed?

You really wanna know what it's like to catch some shit???

Start a thread on herm seeds from Bohdi

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vertnugs said:

Lol......fuck your mom.....i can act just like you

Have fun washing your buds bud.

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vertnugs said:

S H U T U P............no one wants to wash you littleboy penis


The fact that you quoted my shit twice now tells me how much of a dickless piece of shit you are.

Wanna suck your moms shit outta my dick hole?

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Richard Drysift said:

1. Yes... get the small bags if personal runs are all you plan to do and the ones that are all mesh work better than canvas sided ones but the but the easiest way I've found to do bubble is to use one of those portable washing machines. Frenchy is the man

2. Temps are super important. Keep it as close to 70deg F as possible. That's not so easy with bigass lights in tight spaces but as long as you keep it under 85 it won't hurt the bud too much. Higher than 85deg F temps makes for airy buds. High RH is a big problem but low is not really unless you live in the desert; try to keep it under 40% if you can. If it's uncomfortable for you it's the same for them. Get a dehumidifier if you live where it gets muggy in the summer.

3. I've had stunted plants from sitting on cold concrete even in somewhat mild outdoor temps. Keep them off the floor if it's cold. Milk crates work well for this. Under 45 degF is likely the lower temp threshold where you would need to heat the grow area. Not so sure tho cuz I've never let them get that cold.

4. Always amend and recycle your soil. It never goes bad but it might need lime, compost, NPK inputs, etc and time to set to normalize ph. Check out the organic section for help on this.

5. Best water to use in soil is rainwater but obviously that's not always possible. If you are using nutes it doesn't matter as much if you use tap but if you want a natural soil grow without nutrients then you'll want to use a clean water source. I use water collected from my dehumidifier when I need to but luckily I also have access to a natural spring. I collect rain and snow runoff in buckets when possible.

6. No I like it dirty

7. No just hang them in an enclosed space like a grow tent w/no fans at room temp for 7-10 days

8. That sounds like a recipe for mold. Use a space like s closet or grow tent that gets passive air exchange but no circulation

9. Veg your plants until they are about 2/3 the size you want them to finish at..they will grow about 30% larger in bloom phase. Too many variables here to give more than a generic answer.

10. No very bad idea. That will acidify the F out your mix and doesn't remove chloramine. In fact nothing will & that's why they use it. Chlorinated water is not instant death but it will slowly kill off the microbes you may be relying on to feed your plants in a living soil. You can always add them back even if you do with an organic tea regiment. Again if you are using nutrients then it doesn't matter; chloramine is fine for the plants but not for the microherd.

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Flowki said:

He came to an online help forum and made his own polite topic where nobody is forced to post.. but basically got told to go else where. So yeah, people with that attitude truly need to shut the fuck up.

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Chunky Stool said:

People who tell others to shut the fuck up... need to shut the fuck up.

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Flowki said:

I'll take that for the team.

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Dr. Who said:

Richard about sums it up!

Around 80 at the canopy.
ambient at 71 (to hold the canopy and about 73-74 mid plant).
Pot level at no more then 70.

45% RH

How I do it.

Nice post as usual Richard!

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RayRay747 said:

Thanks for your input. Just gauging other growers styles gives me a good understanding of how others are doing it.

My averages are about 75F ambient and about 70F at pot level and canopy is typically around 72F. Humidity stays around 40-50% all around.

Definitely Richard summed it up and gave some great answers.

I’m very interested in learning more opinions on bud washing???

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Chunky Stool said:

Bud washing is essential for outdoor grows.
Unless you enjoy smoking dust, pollen, mold spores, bugs, bug shit, webbing, etc...

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RayRay747 said:

Thanks for your input. Just gauging other growers styles gives me a good understanding of how others are doing it.

My averages are about 75F ambient and about 70F at pot level and canopy is typically around 72F. Humidity stays around 40-50% all around.

Definitely Richard summed it up and gave some great answers.

I’m very interested in learning more opinions on bud washing???

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Dr. Who said:

Washing of buds is simply a thing for PM problems. Personally, bud washing is useless for anything else - PERIOD!
If I had a PM problem late and harvested. It would all go for hash....PM spores fall through the screens.....


I actually set my thermostat height to control the temp layers in my bloom rooms. I set light hood height to control canopy temps.
I have balanced my temps and RH for the amount of and how often I feed. Everything is set to hold only a 3 deg temp change with lights on - all year long. RH only rises 4% and activates the de-huey's to bring it down to 44% and starts the slow climb again.

Every day at lights on. Just enough to carry the pot to the next day, same time. Increases O2 to the roots too!

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RayRay747 said:

Got it.


Yep. Got it. My ambient temps/RH are 75F/48% on average with lights on and 63-65F/35% with lights off. My canopy temps/RH are 69-70F/50% with lights on and 62-64F/35% with lights off.

I currently just have a warm air humidifier to increase humidity. I don’t think I even need a dehumidifier unless I want to get RH lower than 30%. I leave my vortex on 24/7 to help keep the smell down and keep a continuous flow of air going through box.



Yep read a lot out of the organic section. I am using the coast of Maine growers mix “super soil” but I don’t want not to buy another bag just for one more plant. So I was thinking of buying some of the Dr Earth All Purpose Organic Potting Soil to use for the next plant. I currently use Recharge, Vegamatrix Amp-It, Growmore Jumpstart, Aloe Vera Juice, Coconut Water and Molasses so the soil should have enough micros and macros to run the plants life. I’ll be running a dinafem critical plus (photo), and plan to veg the plant until it’s about 3ft tall, and based on 30-35% more growth I would be around 4ft tall at the final stretch. Has anyone ever used the Dr Earth All Purpose Organic Potting Soil?

Yeah another grower and I have been discussing this very same point on ascorbic acid and there’s so little out there on it in relation to what we grow...



Yeah I didn’t plan on it just saw someone mention it and had their buds hanging on strings inside the plastic container.

Any thoughts on this plan: I plan to build a small 2.5x2.5x4 drying box that will be sealed well and insulated and will have a 4” intake and 4” exhaust hole. I plan on running 4” ducting from the exhaust hole to one of my 4” intake vents on my veg/flower grow box. That grow box is currently under negative pressure so in theory it should continue to pull air from outside grow box/drying box through the drying box, then through the exhaust into the grow box and back out through the phresh filter and vortex fan to be recirculated. I figured this would eliminate smell, help control RH and most likely keep temps around 60-65F.

Btw: @Richard Drysift - thanks for the informative responses...

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Richard Drysift said:

I was reading in Skunk mag about "artisan" hashmakers out in cali that wash entire plants after harvest in an h2o2 & water solution. These are outdoor plants growing in arid and dusty conditions. They say it improves the quality of their end product; there is a lot of dirt in the rinse water after it's done but they are washing entire crops at a time. I could see doing it for this reason but for the average joe growing for personal amounts in a controlled environment it's probably a waste of time.

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Richard Drysift said:

Dry box idea sounds fairly complex for what it is but if you are drying large amounts at a time I can understand why. I built a drying tent out of an old stereo rack. It's just a frame with black plastic sheeting draped around it & taped in place. No fans no filters. Dimensions are about the same as the box you designed. It is not airtight; the air is passively exchanged and the smell is controlled by the filters in my grow area nearby. Drying doesn't really throw off as much odor as flowering plants do.
Drying is critical to the process. To me it is important to leave the plant as whole as possible to lengthen drying time. Cutting the plants into smaller pieces speeds up drying which is not what you want especially if you live where it's arid. If you have to add a humidifier then I'm thinking that's likely the case. When you harvest cut off all the leaf that has stems visible and then just snip the tips off of any leaves that have visible trichomes on it. Cut the entire plant only once at the base & try to leave a bottom node to hang it from. Don't trim until totally dry and that means waiting until the stems are brittle and snap when you bend them. If they bend over and crease it's not done drying yet. It should take 7-10 days to dry & no less.

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Dr. Who said:

Hmm, living on dusty gravel roads. I agree 100%...Forgot all about your point. You tend to do that when you don't need it....

GREAT POINT Rich!

But, indoor? Other then PM....No good reason to.

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