BroScience Bullshit - Post here

Have you EVER done any Broscience on your plants ?

  • Yes

    Votes: 36 60.0%
  • Hell no

    Votes: 15 25.0%
  • I ain’t sayin

    Votes: 9 15.0%

  • Total voters
    60

xtsho

Well-Known Member
YOU CAN WHITE OUT but not od, herd of some smokers dying from weed, they were smoking badly dried weed with mold on it and it did something to there lungs and now there pushing up dasies

The United States government had a program in the 1970's where they assisted the Mexican government with the spraying of paraquat on cannabis fields in an effort to stop the flow of marijuana into the United States. Part of the United States war on drugs. Paraquat is a toxic herbicide. Marijuana that was sprayed was still harvested and smuggled into the United States where it ended up on the streets and was consumed by cannabis users.
 

Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
Nutrient lockout

How come Tomatoes never get nutrient lockout

nutrient lockout it's code for "oh f*** I put too much nutes in this and it's screwed up and we better flush"
look up Bor-sensitive plants, and guess what happens to your Tomatoes if you cross a tiny certain threshold.... dead
besides, what are soil analysis for, if not for the correct ratio? just to measure total salt-content? that could be done at home....
 
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Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
11.5/12.5 is the sweet spot.
it's genetic & spectrum & temperature dependant. 12/12 is working in many cases, but longer nights are actually safer

"Don't attempt to bloom at anything over 12/12

Personally, and many others in the know......Do NOT bloom at 12/12. I use 11.5/12.5 or 11/13.

Pure land race and all equatorial sativa's get a sliding scale of lighting decrease..
Start at 12/12 and drop it by 15 min a week after flower set (about 2 weeks)...
OR
Run them 12/12 till week 4 and drop to 11.5/12.5
At week 8, drop to 11/13, at 10.5/3.5 as of week 12
If your running the super longs and they seem to not want to exactly finish. Drop them to 10/14 for a week or 2 and they will come along.. "


quote by Dr. Who
 

xtsho

Well-Known Member
it's genetic & spectrum & temperature dependant. 12/12 is working in many cases, but longer nights are actually safer

"Don't attempt to bloom at anything over 12/12

Personally, and many others in the know......Do NOT bloom at 12/12. I use 11.5/12.5 or 11/13.

Pure land race and all equatorial sativa's get a sliding scale of lighting decrease..
Start at 12/12 and drop it by 15 min a week after flower set (about 2 weeks)...
OR
Run them 12/12 till week 4 and drop to 11.5/12.5
At week 8, drop to 11/13, at 10.5/3.5 as of week 12
If your running the super longs and they seem to not want to exactly finish. Drop them to 10/14 for a week or 2 and they will come along.. "


quote by Dr. Who
I've run 10/14 on long flowering sativa's. It was recommended by the breeder over at ACE. Plant was still shooting pistils at 20 weeks when I chopped it.
 

Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
I've run 10/14 on long flowering sativa's. It was recommended by the breeder over at ACE. Plant was still shooting pistils at 20 weeks when I chopped it.
well, one thing is for certain, the flowering hormone level will be higher the longer the nightphase is. but if that's all that's needed to bring these types of plants to finish... I have my doubts.... u see, it's not just about budding, but also senescence, or "ripening". Temperature decrease, or even less day light, maybe even a switch to a more reddish spectrum.
did you cut out of frustration then? :lol: I mean, 20 weeks into flower or general plant life?
or try N-depletion a bit?
 

Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
"Barney's Farms strains don't herm"

So much new bro science to absorb..
that was sort of to be expected, isn't it? :lol:
but the good news is that when there's at least a discussion about this stuff, some insights may come out of it.

I'm still not finding on my own broscience BS about plants grow more roots during the night... because actually, some plants rather grow freakingly fast during the night their stems/leaves, at least, that's what one can behold easily...

This female PhD from the video... why was she so damn unprecise in her wordings? like "plants feed the bacteria in the soil with sugar in the night"... a weak hint, but nothing to grab at...

also contradictory... she basically stated that plants grow better with 24h lights... but do then neglect the bacterias... which are needed for growth.... so how come they grow better with this neglection?

and it's not even true that plants need bacteria... could feed them strictly minerals in aeroponics there go your bacteria...

so much misunderstanding comes from poor & unprecise wording ...

ah another one:
"Have you seen this YT video?" XD
 

xtsho

Well-Known Member
well, one thing is for certain, the flowering hormone level will be higher the longer the nightphase is. but if that's all that's needed to bring these types of plants to finish... I have my doubts.... u see, it's not just about budding, but also senescence, or "ripening". Temperature decrease, or even less day light, maybe even a switch to a more reddish spectrum.
did you cut out of frustration then? :lol: I mean, 20 weeks into flower or general plant life?
or try N-depletion a bit?
20 weeks of life and I cut it because I couldn't keep it going. All the leaves were falling off, I needed the room in the tent, and for the most part the buds were done. I'm not saying 10/14 is all that's needed. I switched to it based on what the breeder said might help it to finish faster. Normally I wouldn't take that kind of advice but this time the source was solid but I don't have a side by side of 2 clones grown with different light schedules so I can't say if it had any effect.
 
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