Cutter Electronics: Complete DIY COB kits
- Thread starter Growmau5
- Start date
Growmau5
Well-Known Member
I was pretty darn successful with my 10 cob kit from cutter over 20 sqft. So 18-20 cobs should work nicely for your 36 sqft area.
PungentPete
Well-Known Member
Thank you
PungentPete
Well-Known Member
On the order page at the cutter website what choice would one pick in the first area it says please select. There are many choices. Would I by 20 cobs of the same or a mix.? Please advise.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
You mean brands or CCTs?
AtterStiga
Well-Known Member
I'm almost starstruck here, lol. The cob will go into a 10x10ish room, its the first step in what hopefully will be a full upgrade from the nerve wrecking. I went with the 12 cobs (course I did), so I'll build 3 bars @4 cobs. And I'm thinking that doesn't sound like something that would light a square perfectly, but would be nice for a rectangle. But how big an rectangle? Am I to focused on symmetry?
Order Entered at Cutter, hoping for shipping tomorrow.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
No. With cobs, it's all about symmetry and proper spacing bro.
PungentPete
Well-Known Member
The list begins.. 3000k Bd min (add $218.44)
2700k BB min
3500k Cd min
4000k DB min
Etc.
Etc.
Which one do u you choose. I need 18 to 20 cobs. Do I get the all the same?. I don't know what to pick.
2700k BB min
3500k Cd min
4000k DB min
Etc.
Etc.
Which one do u you choose. I need 18 to 20 cobs. Do I get the all the same?. I don't know what to pick.
AtterStiga
Well-Known Member
Yes, but what is the proper spacing for cxb3590s @1400mA? Or rather, optimal spacing? If I increase intensity, how does that compare to increasing area? One cob per f2 would probably grow great nugs, but would one cob per 1.5 or 2 f2 make for more, all variables remaining the same? Not expecting an answer, even though that would be great. Got some more reading to do, poor brain!
Peace
Growmau5
Well-Known Member
i wouldn't get too caught up on your geometry and perfect spacing. Look at all these tiny little commercial led grow lights on the market that people buy. Many/most are 18"x18" fixtures claiming to illuminate a 4x4. And a lot of growers do just fine with them.
For your 12 cob build (4 cobs per bar). I would go with 10-12" spacing between each cob on that particular bar. and mount the bars 10-12" apart (on center). this will give you a better more evenspread than 95% of the the commercial fixtures on the market.
As for Kelvin temperature. Ive played around with a few combinations and I keep coming back to 100% 3500K cd bin. its what works for me & continues to produce the quantity and quality that I am looking for. But by all means, its your journey, so feel free to mix it up a bit if you wish. I can only provide anecdotal observations of 4k vs 3k etc.
this is my latest run all 3500k cd bin.
AtterStiga
Well-Known Member
Brother mau5, that is exactly what I was looking for. Went with the 3500k cd, so that is really reassuring. Thanks a lot. But, oh so long this waiting game. Will be interesting to see how fast my order can get here once shipped. Now I'm going for a visit so I can borrow internet and rewatch your cob porn flicks, lol.
PungentPete
Well-Known Member
Does CUTANDROLL still apply? Said it had expired or not being used anymore.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
It's all discounted now.
AtterStiga
Well-Known Member
Does Cutter have some kind of time expansion device they turn on after ordering? Never were the seconds so long...
Evil-Mobo
Well-Known Member
Do you know if this frame would work as you designed it with Khatod Silicon lenses o the COB's?
Sick frame brother great work as usual...............
AtterStiga
Well-Known Member
@Growmau5
One last question for now. I just watched the cutter config flick, where you make the five cob rig. I noticed you just used alu angle bars on the sides of the heatsinks. Do you think that would be strong enough for a four cob bar? Given thick enough alu, obviously. And hanging attachment on the angle bars, somehow. And lastly, I suppose it's best to build the bars before strapping on holders and cobs?
Drivers scheduled for shipping today, hopefully Cutter ships as soon as their morning comes. My seedlings will love this.
Edit: I'm under the impression that the attachment holes on the heatsinks are 20mm apart in center. Do you know how far down (up) they are from the face of them? Got a lead on some alu, and if I know precisely where the holes go I can save myself from drilling 48 holes. Can't go back and get the holes done, so it would help a lot. If I can build it without drilling it would be awesome, and my buddy will do it on professional machines and to a tolerance I couldn't dream of.
One last question for now. I just watched the cutter config flick, where you make the five cob rig. I noticed you just used alu angle bars on the sides of the heatsinks. Do you think that would be strong enough for a four cob bar? Given thick enough alu, obviously. And hanging attachment on the angle bars, somehow. And lastly, I suppose it's best to build the bars before strapping on holders and cobs?
Drivers scheduled for shipping today, hopefully Cutter ships as soon as their morning comes. My seedlings will love this.
Edit: I'm under the impression that the attachment holes on the heatsinks are 20mm apart in center. Do you know how far down (up) they are from the face of them? Got a lead on some alu, and if I know precisely where the holes go I can save myself from drilling 48 holes. Can't go back and get the holes done, so it would help a lot. If I can build it without drilling it would be awesome, and my buddy will do it on professional machines and to a tolerance I couldn't dream of.
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Growmau5
Well-Known Member
@Evil-Mobo there are so many components and suppliers to consider. I literally got on the computer sunday, designed the file, cut a few and bent them up for a small build im doing for a friend. Im not sure what fits and what doesnt.
@AtterStiga 1/8" L aluminum is some pretty strong stuff, it can handle just about any heatsink you throw at it. The 1/16" thick stuff is a bit dodgy. I have not seen the new Cutter heatsink in person, so Im not sure on the mounting geometry. If mounting via the holes in the heatsink base plate proves to be easier to measure, I would just go that route.
@AtterStiga 1/8" L aluminum is some pretty strong stuff, it can handle just about any heatsink you throw at it. The 1/16" thick stuff is a bit dodgy. I have not seen the new Cutter heatsink in person, so Im not sure on the mounting geometry. If mounting via the holes in the heatsink base plate proves to be easier to measure, I would just go that route.
AtterStiga
Well-Known Member
Thank you so much once again, @Growmau5. I guess I'll just have to hold the pickup of the alu until I can measure, unless @welight can chime in with the measurements. I'm sure there are more people who would be interested in this. Would be grand to have everything in order when the goodies arrive, just get it up and running, ya know.
Redoctober
Well-Known Member
Growmau5, firstly, thank you for all of your research, experimentation, time, effort, and dedication to your craft; and most of all, documenting it all and giving all of us entree to the world of LEDs and electronics with your brilliant ground-up instruction! You've made a lot of things possible for myself and many others!
I just completed a very successful run with your mau5-V kit and was going to turn it into a 12 COB kit for the next run. In the spirit of experimentation, I was heavily leaning towards a split between 6x 4000k and 6x 3000k (90cri) CXB3590s. I will include the spectral distribution chart because there is indeed a difference between the 80 and 90cri 3000k. The 90cri is shifted more towards the red end and might hit that 660nm peak and match the McCree curve more effectively (it's also a bit more expensive). I don't know why Cree chose not to include the 3500k spectrum on the chart, but one does exist, and as one would expect it's sort of an average of the 4000k and 3000k.
You mention that you have experimented with various combinations of color temperatures and I wonder if what I'm proposing sounds like something you've already done?
Or if not, do you have anecdotes of others you know who've done the same thing, or if you think it's worth doing?
From a purely theoretical standpoint, I very much like the idea of the blue of the 4000k and red of the 3000k, almost like running MH and HPS in tandem.
I know your canopy 10 included disparate spectra so I just thought I'd get your input before I proceed
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Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Looks like the 93cri 3000K has a good amount of blue already and indeed does hit that 660. I'd definitely use it if you do decide this route. But Growmau5 will most likely tell you as he tells everyone. He keeps coming back to 3500k CXB3590's.
In my opinion, I'd probably use 3000K 93CRI mixed with 3500k more so than 4000. RED is what you want most of and those 93 CRIs with 3500's spectrum will give ya pleeeeeenty of Blue.