Natural Sources of Myco?

max316420

Well-Known Member
So would it be useless to use in flowering, I know roots still grow in flowering but would it be that beneficial? Or should it be started after clones are first transplanted? I'm just debating on whether to use it on a couple of test ladies im doin or wait til my next crop.
 

ataxia

Well-Known Member
a little goes along way .... i only use for transplanting, whether its it's flowering pot or not. IME .... you can go overboard with it for a better root structure, the drawback is, is that you'll be repotting sooner than expected
 

vh13

Well-Known Member
I've been told by multiple, reliable sources that an inoculation of beneficial organisms only needs to be done once, obviously the sooner the better but at any time, and that anything more is a waste.

I would imagine that is true only for completely organic, soil-like grows though. Often times, hydro nutes have chemicals in 'em that will weaken if not kill beneficial micro-organisms.

Furthermore, Heisenberg says that in an ideal hydro-system, beneficial micros are actually not necessary unless used to fight off a pathogen, because an ideal hydro system already provides the plants with everything they need, there is nothing the micros can enhance. My own experiences with pure hydro would seem to support his statement.

I only do it with every feeding now as a preventative measure and because it's how I prepare my organic feeding solution anyway.
 

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
So would it be useless to use in flowering, I know roots still grow in flowering but would it be that beneficial? Or should it be started after clones are first transplanted? I'm just debating on whether to use it on a couple of test ladies im doin or wait til my next crop.
*I* inoculate when the clones are first transplanted into soil, using MycoGrow Soluble from Fungi Perfecti. Much less is needed than say for a soil drench. I just dunk the RW cube or peat pellet into a mixed solution and go on with the transplant.

One application is all that's needed.

Wet
 

hoagtech

Well-Known Member
I can tell you what the most effective myco is: Great White
ZHO and Plant success did not have near the same results or even the same fertigation ratio as great white. I think great white is plant success meth.

But I wanna know what mushrooms are good for your plants or is raw mycelium good? What kind of mycelium? hardwood growth? (tree trunk mushrooms like shaggy and oysters)
 

Heisenberg

Well-Known Member
Furthermore, Heisenberg says that in an ideal hydro-system, beneficial micros are actually not necessary unless used to fight off a pathogen, because an ideal hydro system already provides the plants with everything they need, there is nothing the micros can enhance. My own experiences with pure hydro would seem to support his statement.
Remember my statements pertain to a DWC system using synthetic nutes. Also, there are secondary benefits such as not having to cool the res or make it completely light proof. Also, re inoculation doesn't just include myco spores, but bacteria and trichoderma. Mycos will live a long time probably as long as the roots are alive, but the other stuff cycles and needs replaced, especially since we don't feed them.


Myco does not refer to mycelium, but to mycorrhiza, which is greek for fungus roots. It is a specific type of fungus, so not just any mushroom would do. It is however omnipresent in natural soil, especially forest detritus. There is a method for collecting your own beneficials from the wild. I copied this article to my notes one time and apologize for not being able to site the source, but here is the instructions.

One technique in culturing other beneficial microorganism is getting them fro your local aged forest. One way is finding a healthy old robust tree in your local forest.

Check the humus litter around the tree. The tree should have accumulated real deep humus, litter, compost of at least 2 feet to 1 yard deep. In this area through observation, we can deduce that soil fertility and microbial biodiversity are high.

Our goal is to trap and culture these diversed, aged beneficial indigenous microorganisms. The technique that we use in trapping these microorganisms is the use of carbohydrate like cooked rice. Microorganisms will be attracted to food.

So generally, what we do is to put the cooked rice on a flatter container with lid. For example, you can use a plastic lunch box and add about an inch of cooked rice allowing air space in the container. What is important here is a larger area to trap those microorganisms. It is suggested that you cover this container with metal netting or equivalent protecting it from animals like rats that may undig your container once you bury it in the litter, humus of your local forest. In 2-10 days (relative to temperature), you may undig your container and will notice contamination of microorganisms like white and other color molds on the cooked rice.

The cooked rice has been infected now with microorganisms of your local forest. The next step is to add 1/3 amount of crude sugar or molasses to the infected cooked rice. After a week, the concoction will look like sticky, liquidy rice. You may then add equal amount of crude sugar or molasses to keep it for storage, arresting microbial activities, in a cooler area.

To use, you may dilute this serum with 20 parts water. This diluted form shall then serve as your basic forest microorganisms. You may strain it and put in a container.

Another version of trapping similar forest microorganisms is simply getting the litter, humus and spreading them sparingly to the top your cooked rice. Forest leaf molds can also be used.

The same procedure will be followed as described in the culture of local forest microorganisms.
I have never tried this myself but I think it's along the lines of what you were looking for. This would collect many beneficials but to get actual myco spores, you would want to use composted soil. This is because mycos will not germinate until they make contact with roots, so they wouldn't be attracted to the rice cake.
 

hoagtech

Well-Known Member
Remember my statements pertain to a DWC system using synthetic nutes. Also, there are secondary benefits such as not having to cool the res or make it completely light proof. Also, re inoculation doesn't just include myco spores, but bacteria and trichoderma. Mycos will live a long time probably as long as the roots are alive, but the other stuff cycles and needs replaced, especially since we don't feed them.






Myco does not refer to mycelium, but to mycorrhiza, which is greek for fungus roots. It is a specific type of fungus, so not just any mushroom would do. It is however omnipresent in natural soil, especially forest detritus. There is a method for collecting your own beneficials from the wild. I copied this article to my notes one time and apologize for not being able to site the source, but here is the instructions.



I have never tried this myself but I think it's along the lines of what you were looking for. This would collect many beneficials but to get actual myco spores, you would want to use composted soil. This is because mycos will not germinate until they make contact with roots, so they wouldn't be attracted to the rice cake.
THAT is the answer I wanted. Your then heisenburg. Your show rules too
 
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