Plants have yellowing leaves throughout

Cobrex

Member
Too much bloom will also lock out secondaries/trace minerals too. Wait you use grow big/tigerbloom and a bloom booster on all plants and you only have 1 plant yellowing? Grow big is already 6-4-4 but it sounds like your using 6-12-6 or something
No all the plants have leaves similar to the one I posted, the ones under my more intense light seem to be worse though. I wish it was only 1 plant lol, and I was using all of those things yes, but with this recent feeding I took the bloom booster out and uped my big bloom a little to compensate.
 

Cobrex

Member
thats per gallon of PHed water? And why grow big, are you in week 5 of flower?
Yes thats per gallon of 6.5 Phed water or at least as close as I can get to that. Yes I'm in week 5 of flowering according to the FF schedule this should be the last week I use the grow big.
 

SPLFreak808

Well-Known Member
No all the plants have leaves similar to the one I posted, the ones under my more intense light seem to be worse though. I wish it was only 1 plant lol, and I was using all of those things yes, but with this recent feeding I took the bloom booster out and uped my big bloom a little to compensate.
Sorry i thought it was only 1 plant,Back off on the bloom, never give more p/k over n unless your plants need it otherwise you will get a nutrient imbalance in the medium that will lock shit up
 

Cobrex

Member
Sorry i thought it was only 1 plant,Back off on the bloom, never give more p/k over n unless your plants need it otherwise you will get a nutrient imbalance in the medium that will lock shit up
My bloom is already at .5 tsp I can't really go any lower.
 

SPLFreak808

Well-Known Member
My bloom is already at .5 tsp I can't really go any lower.
You need to familiarize yourself with the contents in the bottle, not the name of the bottle. Tiger bloom,molasses and swell all have p/k in it, they are all the same shit at different ratios. When i say bloom im pointing to all the bottles with excessive p and/or k.
 

Cobrex

Member
You need to familiarize yourself with the contents in the bottle, not the name of the bottle. Tiger bloom,molasses and swell all have p/k in it, they are all the same shit at different ratios. When i say bloom im pointing to all the bottles with excessive p and/or k.
Yeah but the ratios in which im giving them for each one is going to change the amounts, but I get what your saying, basically the bottles with lower p/k use less of them and the ones with higher n use more of right?
 

SPLFreak808

Well-Known Member
Yeah but the ratios in which im giving them for each one is going to change the amounts, but I get what your saying, basically the bottles with lower p/k use less of them and the ones with higher n use more of right?
Yes. Grow big = 6-4-4 / big swell = 2-5-3 / tigerbloom = 2-8-4.

.5 of big swell and tiger bloom is already 2-6-3 or some shit.
Nitrogen is what keeps plants green regardless of whats printed on the bottle. Insufficient nitrogen = dying plant / too much p = lock-outs. I have actually never used grow big yet but im willing to bet thats all you need in terms of primary nutrients once the soil gets somewhat depleted.
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
peroxide is rough on a plant, only use it in emergencies, when you know you have root rot, not for gnats.
go buy some mosquito dunks/bits and sprinkle that over your soil. it'll take about a week to ten days but the gnats will leave, and as the stuff disolves into the pot, it will kill maggots as well. the gnats won't come back as long as you re-apply monthly. one dunk broken up will cover 6 to 8 good sized pots.
every time i read about someone using foxfarms soil, they're always asking whats wrong with my plant. foxfarms LOAD their soil with nutes.
then they buy nutes and add them on top of whats already in the foxfarms nute filled soil. if you buy amended soil, don't use ANY nutes til you start to see signs of deficiencies, then start feeding. you probly have a lot of salts building up in your pots by now, i'd do a decent flush on them all and start feeding at half strength.
 

Cobrex

Member
Yes. Grow big = 6-4-4 / big swell = 2-5-3 / tigerbloom = 2-8-4.

.5 of big swell and tiger bloom is already 2-6-3 or some shit.
Nitrogen is what keeps plants green regardless of whats printed on the bottle. Insufficient nitrogen = dying plant / too much p = lock-outs. I have actually never used grow big yet but im willing to bet thats all you need in terms of primary nutrients once the soil gets somewhat depleted.
Yeah I was looking at my nutes last night and realized of the 3 foxfarm nutes I really only need to use the grow big during veg and slowly taper that off during flowering and just use the tiger bloom during flower and that should be enough.
 

Cobrex

Member
peroxide is rough on a plant, only use it in emergencies, when you know you have root rot, not for gnats.
go buy some mosquito dunks/bits and sprinkle that over your soil. it'll take about a week to ten days but the gnats will leave, and as the stuff disolves into the pot, it will kill maggots as well. the gnats won't come back as long as you re-apply monthly. one dunk broken up will cover 6 to 8 good sized pots.
every time i read about someone using foxfarms soil, they're always asking whats wrong with my plant. foxfarms LOAD their soil with nutes.
then they buy nutes and add them on top of whats already in the foxfarms nute filled soil. if you buy amended soil, don't use ANY nutes til you start to see signs of deficiencies, then start feeding. you probly have a lot of salts building up in your pots by now, i'd do a decent flush on them all and start feeding at half strength.
The mosquito bits is what I've been using I just recently started using the H2O2 when I heard of all the benefits it has, but realistically yeah it may be doing more harm then good. When you say flush the plants you mean just run straight PHed water through them right? Like if I water with half a gallon normally I should use a whole gallon to flush, just wanna be sure. Also if I don't use any nutes won't the plants grow slower?
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
i'd use 2 or 3 times the volume of the pot , and do it slowly, don't just dump it all in at once.
your plants won't grow more slowly till they eat all the nutes that come in your soil to begin with. foxfarms pack a lot of stuff in their soil, so if you add nutes on top of whats already in the soil, you're overfeeding. you have to let your plants use up whats already there before you add more. when you see growth slow down, and the very first signs of any deficiencies, like new growth coming in light colored, thats when you want to start using more nutes.
almost all nutes come in the form of mineral "salts", if you don't water till you see about 10% run off, those salts build up in the soil and slowly poison your plant. a good flush to start with will get rid of a lot of that, but i'd make sure i'm getting a little run through each time i water to avoid salt build up.
 

Cobrex

Member
i'd use 2 or 3 times the volume of the pot , and do it slowly, don't just dump it all in at once.
your plants won't grow more slowly till they eat all the nutes that come in your soil to begin with. foxfarms pack a lot of stuff in their soil, so if you add nutes on top of whats already in the soil, you're overfeeding. you have to let your plants use up whats already there before you add more. when you see growth slow down, and the very first signs of any deficiencies, like new growth coming in light colored, thats when you want to start using more nutes.
almost all nutes come in the form of mineral "salts", if you don't water till you see about 10% run off, those salts build up in the soil and slowly poison your plant. a good flush to start with will get rid of a lot of that, but i'd make sure i'm getting a little run through each time i water to avoid salt build up.
When I feed them theres very little to no run off but when I give them regular PHed water theres usually a little less then half a gallon run off.
 

SPLFreak808

Well-Known Member
Yeah I was looking at my nutes last night and realized of the 3 foxfarm nutes I really only need to use the grow big during veg and slowly taper that off during flowering and just use the tiger bloom during flower and that should be enough.
Once again nitrogen is what keeps plants green regardless of its growth phase. Its up to you if you want to follow tiger blooms schedule but you will have yellow plants before half way through flower. Yellow plants in flower = low yield/quality. They put all this "grow" "bloom" formulas because they sucker people into buying two seperate bottles. Then they put an insane amount of feed printed on the bottle so people get suckered into running out quicker
 

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
They put all this "grow" "bloom" formulas because they sucker people into buying two seperate bottles. Then they put an insane amount of feed printed on the bottle so people get suckered into running out quicker
Not really. What's going with the separate bottles is keeping certain elements away from other elements. Calcium and phosphorus has a chemical attraction for each other and will bind together and drift to the bottom of the container. When this happens they are not useful as fertilizer anymore. I don't know how putting an insane amount on the bottle causes people to run out quicker. Usually if you have a higher concentrate of something you would use less of it and get the same effect, so no clue what you're trying to say there.
 

SPLFreak808

Well-Known Member
Not really. What's going with the separate bottles is keeping certain elements away from other elements. Calcium and phosphorus has a chemical attraction for each other and will bind together and drift to the bottom of the container. When this happens they are not useful as fertilizer anymore. I don't know how putting an insane amount on the bottle causes people to run out quicker. Usually if you have a higher concentrate of something you would use less of it and get the same effect, so no clue what you're trying to say there.
So foliage-pro wont work? Nitrogen must be kept seperated from p/k in a bottle?

When i said "insane" amount, i was talking about the feed schedule printed on the bottle, you just cant start off that high.
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
its not N and P-K that have to be seperated, but they are used in different strengths at different times, so its convenient for the companies to package some of the things that have to be seperate with the N, and some of the others with the P-K, so you can have some small control of how much of what you're using.
and i agree, most nute feeding schedules i have seen are at least 25% higher than any sane person needs, and most are more like 50%. i use half recommended strength during veg and about 65% during flower and get fine results
 

8thGenFarmer

Well-Known Member
The most common mistake any herb grower makes is loving their girls too much. Too many ferts, too many boosts, too much light, watering too often.

The best crops I've ever grown have used the least number of bottles. Two bottles of base for me and a little MPP, and I can keep perfect leaves until wk9. No discoloration no deficiency. I used to spend much more to grow less. The quality won't be better on a plant IMO when you give a booster and the plant doesn't look happy.

Did i mention A&B? House and garden, canna, mills, advanced if you just have to......,
 

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
freak, I said calcium and phosphate should be kept separate. I didn't say nitrogen and p/k. please don't jump to conclusions. the dynagrow brand puts calcium in with phosphate but is said to be rather acidic, which allows this to work for a while. but over time, even this fails.
 

SPLFreak808

Well-Known Member
freak, I said calcium and phosphate should be kept separate. I didn't say nitrogen and p/k. please don't jump to conclusions. the dynagrow brand puts calcium in with phosphate but is said to be rather acidic, which allows this to work for a while. but over time, even this fails.
thats my point bud, didn't say anything about secondaries/trace minerals i was talking about primary nutrients "grow" and "bloom". Sorry i didnt mean to bait you with the foliage-pro but you kind of just jumped at me for trying to explain why grow and bloom is sold as a veg/flower nutrient even though neither need to contain Ca, if one vegges with 5-1-1 then ofcourse it will be bloom hungry in flower.
i understand shelf life is greatly reduced with a 1 bottle complete with everything (Ca/P) and one should never buy more then a year of supply because yes, as you said it will fail and stick to the bottom in an insoluble form
 
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