red dwarf (auto) x2, lemon skunk, and wild rose

ok , those are gonna be some big plant once u throw them into flower how much longer u gonna veg them for

hmmm not sure... ideally the 4 four should flower witha 400 hps so we kinda have to wait for the bigbang to finish in about 4 or 5 weeks and then put the lemon skunk and wild rose on flowering. we think may be the wild rose is a SAD, cuz we messed up the seeds labels when germinating and the kind of leaf looks more like a SAD than a wild. and the other two are autos so they are already flowering if you look closely.
these do look qluite big, huh? thats why we havent upgraded the pots yet, cuz if we did they d explode and we are trying to hold them back or run slow for a lil while longer

have u thought about toppin

Ideally, even when using 1k HPS or 600 HPS, plants should FINISH at no more than 1m/3ft...

Any taller than that, and the bottom of the plant is simply not getting enough intensity to give you optimal results...

Every 33cm you move from the bulb, you only have 1/4 of the light... it gets pretty bad pretty quick......

Just thought I'd share...

thanks man, to make it clear i got a 400 hps on flower and a 250 one on veg, on two separate rooms. the flowering big bang is at 80 cm right now, so i guess thats right around where it should be... no?

mcpurple? whats topping? dont know that word in english.. please tell me what you mean

damargentina said:

thanks man, to make it clear i got a 400 hps on flower and a 250 one on veg, on two separate rooms. the flowering big bang is at 80 cm right now, so i guess thats right around where it should be... no?

Click to expand...

damargentina said:

mcpurple? whats topping? dont know that word in english.. please tell me what you mean

Click to expand...

Topping would be to CHOP THE TOP off...

Which is something you should consider... top her and make a BUNCH of clones from the part you chop...

80cm in veg means that plant will be WAY TOO TALL for your lights.. the bottoms will be in the shade/less intense light...

Let me see if I find something on topping for you..

And in my opinion, the plant should be right around 30~40cm, so it would finish under 1M...

I'll be back...

no topping, but another option in keeping plants short...

Remember, they do not have to be SMALL, just SHORT...


Low Stress Training 101

Low Stress Training 101
Well here we go, LST (Low Stress Training) the ultimate way to maximize your yield.

Before we begin lets get some knowledge on what you will be looking at.

Light Brown : Pot Outline
Green thick Lines : Main Stem
Small Thin Lines with Green Balls on top : Fan leafs
Yellow Lines : Side Branches
Red : Tiedown Metal Hooks (or thread whichever item you use, i use Hooks its easier)

The Text in the box : First digit is Step No. and Second Digit is Pot Size, below the numbers is the type of view your looking at (either from the SIDE or from the TOP)


Now that thats out of the way lets get it on..

Please note, you dont have to do it this way, its just the idea of how to do LST, this is the way i did it and you can see the end result of 4 weeks of growth this way in my signature picture where it says FIM/LST. Some may opt to use the eggcrate method where you utilize an eggcrate around the pot and tie it down to that with zipties instead of using string or hooks running from the pot itself... this way you can cover more square footage and maximize your yield even more.

Ok heres the STEPS PICTURE for you to follow along with.



STEP 1 : Grow your plant from Seed or Clone to 3 or 4 leaf sets, some use 5 but i always use 3 because after 3rd leaf set the main stem starts to harden and it will be harder to bend over your plant properly without breaking the main stem.

STEP 2 : Using a metal hook (i cut small sections of cloths hanger and bend a U shape at the end as a hook) bend over your plant with metal hook at the last internode (space between the last set of fanleafs and the next to last) and stick the metal hook into your dirt to hold down the stem.

STEP 3 : This is really not a step, just waiting time... Take note of how the top of the plant that was bent down will bend back upwards towards the light, this could take anywhere from 3 hours to 1 day. Under my 1000 Watt Metal Halide light it does it in under 3 hours.

STEP 4 : Veg and dont tie down until you have a new leaf set. You will notice Side branching has started already because good light is getting to the main stem areas next to each fanleaf stem intersection with the main stem.

STEP 5 : Depending on your starting pot size you may have to transplant. If you started out with a large pot, repeat step 2 over and over again holding the main stem down with hooks until you reach the end of the pot. In this illustration to save time and drawings, i started out with a small pot and it reached the end of the pot after the first tiedown. I repotted it into a 10 inch pot which will be my final pot size for this plant in order for me to continue the LST Bends around the inside edge of the pot.

STEP 6 : Now that your new leaf set has formed you have enough length in growth since the first bend(s) to allow you to start bending the stem horizontally around the inside edge of the pot. Use metal hooks again to keep this bend in place. Side branches should be coming along very nicely.

STEP 7 : Continue repeating steps 4 and 6, allowing the plant to grow and then keep tieing it down along the inside edge of pot using metal hooks (or whatever your using) Side branches should be forming and growing up towards the light.

STEP 8 : Continue to repeat step 7 until you are all the way around the pot... when you reach the point where your plant first met the edge of the plant Top the plant (cut off the very top of the plant ) and hold it down horizontally with a metal hook.... During all this time of repeating step 7 you should also be tieing down horizontally the new branches that have formed from the main stem as much as possible until you use up as much space as possible inside the pot as well , the outter branches growing over the outside edge of the pot you can hold down as well with string to keep those tops even with the inner branches.

STEP 9 : After you have used up all possible space inside the pot (or your eggcrate) its time to just let it flower.. This is a side view of how it will and should look by that time with all the side branches growing upwards towards the light.... these will all become Collas unlike a non LST plant will only have one colla.

During flowering and even before due to lack of light on the main stem fan leafs which is all the way to the bottom almost against the soil those fanleafs will die off anyways, i usually cut these off the main stem right after the branch has grown out in that area, keeps things neat down below where you will need good airflow during flowering.. so go ahead and take off any fanleafs coming off the main stem that is going around the inside edge of the pot.

Set your timer to 12/12 and watch it bloom

There is no Step 10 in the picture but we all know what that is

HARVEST!!!

Here is a post by Mogie...

Topping a Plant

1. Locate the very top of your plant and cut through the main stem just below the newest growth. This should be done after the 3rd or 4th leaf set but can be done at any time after the 3rd leaf set.

2. Shows Plant Top cut off and where the 2 new Branches that will form a "Y" in the main stem will grow from.

3. Shows the newly topped plant after 2 days of growth, notice the Y in the Stem Forming.

Click to expand...

and here is one on how to get multiple clones from a single branch... (the top, if you decide to chop...)

Branch cloning

How do I take multiple clones from the whole branch?

Contributed by: MeasureG
Submitted: 05-02-2003

Introduction
Most folks (including me) take only main growing tips as cuttings, but occasions arise when you want to preserve the maximum number of growing tips on the mother plant. Sometimes it is better to remove only one complete branch and make it into multiple clones. Occasionally, while training a plant, you will break off a branch. Here's a way to turn that branch into multiple clones.

Just as an aside, I discovered this technique when my knife slipped, and I cut across a node instead of trimming off the leaf and secondary growing tip at that node. I was surprised when the bottom half rooted faster than the main growing tip.

According to several sources, cuttings taken from below the main growing tip will usually root faster (and in my observation better) due to lower nitrogen levels and higher carbohydrate levels. I also find the stiffer woody stems from lower on a branch easier to deal with than soft green ones near the tip.

The smaller secondary growing tips will take a bit longer to develop into full fledged plants, but they will have a great set of roots to do it with.

Technique
​

Cut off the main growing tip by making a 45 degree cut through the main stem just above a node and prepare it as you normally would.

Cut up the remainder of the branch by making a succession of cuts through the nodes at 45 degree angles. You will end up with a bunch of short stems with a 45 degree cut at the top and the bottom, and a leaf and growing tip near the upper edge of the top cut.

If the cutting is too long to fit entirely inside your cloning medium, trim the bottom end of the cutting.

Holding the cutting by the leaf stem (petiole), scrape away some of the outer layer of the stem tissue to expose some phloem (the white tissue underneath). Dip the whole stem into your cloning gel or rooting hormone, be sure to cover both the bottom and the top cuts. Avoid getting any on the growing tip.

Insert the stem into the cloning medium, you may need to open up the hole in the rockwool or latex plug a bit first.

Use a sterile tool (a chopstick, q-tip stem, etc) to push on the top of the stem to push it inside the cloning medium. The leaf may tilt up as the stem goes inside the medium.

Click to expand...

damargentina said:

thanks man, to make it clear i got a 400 hps on flower and a 250 one on veg, on two separate rooms. the flowering big bang is at 80 cm right now, so i guess thats right around where it should be... no?

Click to expand...

thanks i ll take my time to read it... aclaracion: the big bang is on the other journal its on FLOWER that is why its 80 cm the short ones on veg that you see on this journal are about 25 cm right now

GypsyBush said:

Here is a post by Mogie...

Click to expand...

oooh thats topping thats what we did to the bagseed that is flowering with the big bang.... it looks very different you can see all the new stems if you look closely. i ll water them now and post some new pics

ok so these are the 4 we got on 18/6 right now since they were born on december 29th. two are red dwarfs so you can see the flowers nice already. the other two are lemon skunk by greenhouse and the one we put as wild rose originally is a sweet Afghanis delicious. they have a 250 watt HPS and a fan for now. we guess they are just about ready for flower since we dont want them to be too tall for the HPS. enjoy!

They all look really nice...!!!

I think I would have the autos under the 400HPS if there is room...

And that Lemon Skunk looks like a pretty good mom... why not just start cloning off of her and just keep her in veg???

But they all look really good!!! wish i could stop by at harvest time...

Yeah.. you could take a bunch of clone from this plant and still keep her in veg... make a momma out of her...

Maybe even throw some CFLs around her and get that 250w in the flower room...

i need to have everything harvested by max third week in april. i d like to clone too but i dont know how to maxime harvest. i want to clone but i dont know how to harvest everything by the first day of the third week in april. what would you do? by that date i have to take down the lights bro

damargentina said:

i need to have everything harvested by max third week in april. i d like to clone too but i dont know how to maxime harvest. i want to clone but i dont know how to harvest everything by the first day of the third week in april. what would you do? by that date i have to take down the lights bro

Click to expand...

I see...

It takes... 2 weeks or so to get roots...

So you would be starting to flower by the 3rd week of Feb...

That would give you until the 3rd week in April (8 weeks) to finish up...

But it may be more trouble than it is worth...

the first week in May when the construction workers are finally gone, i have ready on my fridge 2 AMS by greenhouse, one flashback (sweet seeds), 1 lemon skunk, 1 big bang, out of these i d like to get at still one mom i d like for it to be the flashback but it depends on how the come along and clone. do you know any of these strains? which would you recommend for mother?

btw, when will be down south? we are taking a trip to puerto madryn, we are going to see the whale franca austral

damargentina said:

the first week in May when the construction workers are finally gone, i have ready on my fridge 2 AMS by greenhouse, one flashback (sweet seeds), 1 lemon skunk, 1 big bang, out of these i d like to get at still one mom i d like for it to be the flashback but it depends on how the come along and clone. do you know any of these strains? which would you recommend for mother?

Click to expand...

Ideally you would keep one of each...

And have both strains going... I used to have up to 7 at one time...

and that way you can always get a little taste change...

Imagine if you could harvest.. say 4 lollipops a week... one week would be the lemon.. the following you get some flash...

Even if you only get 1/4oz/5g per lollipop, that is still 20g a week...

And with a 400w, in ebb/flow, you could fit 36 lollies... and harvest 4 or 5 every week... or 9 every 2 weeks... or 18 a month...

I bet once you get the feel for it, you could get 14g lollies... all the time...

I am not familiar with those strains, but I am sure they are top notch...