You don't need more P in flower. It's bad for your plants and the environment

@PadawanWarrior
We had insane flooding here a few weeks ago, the water treatment plant went 18ft under and breached into the river and throughout our whole suburb. The Tao water afterwards received warning about high levels of contaminants and measured 475ppm at one point. Crazy scary. I don't wanna know what it was broken down in analysis. Ignorance is bliss.

1700mm rain in two days.

PadawanWarrior said:

If you want more K organically check out langbeinite.

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Down to earth is all I can find here. How much per a gallon of soil would u use?

Always cautious with things breaking down as I don’t know when/how much is going to break down for the plants

Nutty sKunK said:

Down to earth is all I can find here. How much per a gallon of soil would u use?

Always cautious with things breaking down as I don’t know when/how much is going to break down for the plants

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I've got the DTE Langbeinite. I haven't been using it for that long, but I add some each time I topdress. I started with a little at a time and have been adding more and more. @kratos015 is one I'd ask though. He's the one who turned me onto adding more since he has similar water as I do.

I've been preaching the benefits of lower P for 15 years at least and have used AN's Big Bud since it was invented by Dr. Hornby while working for AN.

The last tweak of the formula leaves it at 0-15-35 so leaning more toward K than P and no N. 10%S too which is the 'secret ingredient' in many bud boosters and often overlooked by growers. More Mg is needed after the stretch too so good old Epsom Salts can supply lots of both without a big hit on your wallet.


Stacked the same way with the old one on the bottom.



Here's a fairly extensive article all about cannabis nutrient tissue analysis. just a little ways down the long page are some good charts that clearly show how little P is needed compared to K. I'm a sciencey kind of guy and reading too much of this stuff makes my head hurt but pot fixes that.


Learning something new every day helps keep the oldtimerz disease at bay!

OldMedUser said:

I've been preaching the benefits of lower P for 15 years at least and have used AN's Big Bud since it was invented by Dr. Hornby while working for AN.

The last tweak of the formula leaves it at 0-15-35 so leaning more toward K than P and no N. 10%S too which is the 'secret ingredient' in many bud boosters and often overlooked by growers. More Mg is needed after the stretch too so good old Epsom Salts can supply lots of both without a big hit on your wallet.
View attachment 5126305

Stacked the same way with the old one on the bottom.

View attachment 5126306

Here's a fairly extensive article all about cannabis nutrient tissue analysis. just a little ways down the long page are some good charts that clearly show how little P is needed compared to K. I'm a sciencey kind of guy and reading too much of this stuff makes my head hurt but pot fixes that.

Site permanently closed due to piracy and trading off Issues

Site permanently closed due to piracy and trading off Issues. Manic Botanix, nor its author, is in no way linked to any commercial interests claiming a link. Full stop. Contact [email protected] or follow on Instagram @manicbotanix

manicbotanix.com

Learning something new every day helps keep the oldtimerz disease at bay! View attachment 5126308

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Good stuff. I've ways gone relatively sulfur rich as I've grown flowers before and they love it.

I always get asked what the fourth number is when I quote NPKS as most don't even realise the relevance of Sulphur. It's also great for mitigating Calcium overdose while still keeping the benefits of the buffering capacity calcium provides. I usually use 20:10:30:15

I'm using an interesting organic powder now.
N 3.8
P 1.9
K 4.3
Ca 12.1
S 10.2

Thought it was different so I thought I'd give it a go.

OldMedUser said:

I've been preaching the benefits of lower P for 15 years at least and have used AN's Big Bud since it was invented by Dr. Hornby while working for AN.

The last tweak of the formula leaves it at 0-15-35 so leaning more toward K than P and no N. 10%S too which is the 'secret ingredient' in many bud boosters and often overlooked by growers. More Mg is needed after the stretch too so good old Epsom Salts can supply lots of both without a big hit on your wallet.
View attachment 5126305

Stacked the same way with the old one on the bottom.

View attachment 5126306

Here's a fairly extensive article all about cannabis nutrient tissue analysis. just a little ways down the long page are some good charts that clearly show how little P is needed compared to K. I'm a sciencey kind of guy and reading too much of this stuff makes my head hurt but pot fixes that.

Site permanently closed due to piracy and trading off Issues

Site permanently closed due to piracy and trading off Issues. Manic Botanix, nor its author, is in no way linked to any commercial interests claiming a link. Full stop. Contact [email protected] or follow on Instagram @manicbotanix

manicbotanix.com

Learning something new every day helps keep the oldtimerz disease at bay! View attachment 5126308

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I just got me some potassium, manganese and Epsom sulphates. Can noticeably detect stronger aromas a few days after applying and the terps get super complex

VincenzioVonHook said:

I've ways used 2:1:3, 3:1:4 or 11:2:13 so I've never been one to load up on P as I never bought into the "marijuana specific" flower fertilisers. Luckily it looks like I made the right choice, or a choice that didn't hinder me, considering 90% of people claimed those ratios were terrible for flower. These E

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VincenzioVonHook said:

I've ways used 2:1:3, 3:1:4 or 11:2:13 so I've never been one to load up on P as I never bought into the "marijuana specific" flower fertilisers. Luckily it looks like I made the right choice, or a choice that didn't hinder me, considering 90% of people claimed those ratios were terrible for flower. These crazy PK boosters always struck me as bizarre.

If you can't grow a plant with a well rounded base nutrient like a 2:1:3:1 or 3:1:4:1 I've always wondered what was up.

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I use tomato feed at 2-1.5-4. It's great. All I add is half a teaspoon of Epsom Salts and half a teaspoon of Calcium Chloride per 5L once a week after I flip to 12/12, just as a preventative.

speedwell68 said:

I use tomato feed at 2-1.5-4. It's great. All I add is half a teaspoon of Epsom Salts and half a teaspoon of Calcium Chloride per 5L once a week after I flip to 12/12, just as a preventative.

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That sounds like a base ratio I would definitely consider for flower. Nice and simple. All out tomato ferts here at locals are like 7:1:4 or similar.

VincenzioVonHook said:

Good stuff. I've ways gone relatively sulfur rich as I've grown flowers before and they love it.

I always get asked what the fourth number is when I quote NPKS as most don't even realise the relevance of Sulphur. It's also great for mitigating Calcium overdose while still keeping the benefits of the buffering capacity calcium provides. I usually use 20:10:30:15

I'm using an interesting organic powder now.
N 3.8
P 1.9
K 4.3
Ca 12.1
S 10.2

Thought it was different so I thought I'd give it a go.

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What's that powder called and who's ass do I have to kiss to get some?

That actually looks like a great veg formula. Lower the N to 1 - 1.5 and the P to maybe 0.5 and it would be great for after the stretch.

I'm giving a couple of my plants that I have twins of a product called Chito-sal. One Pink Kush and one Cherry Noir just got their 2nd dose tonight and those plants are looking better than the ones not getting any. One dose a week before flipping, (I like to dose with bloom nutes at the same time), then every every 2 weeks thru flower. They recommend the first two doses be foliar sprays then add to the water after that. The link will tell you all about it.

Something is screwed with my soil mix with some plants looking burned and a couple fine with very slow bud development in all but my CBD girl who looks the best of the 7. The dosed Kush is definitely looking happier than it's twin and the Cherry not as much but somewhat better. I used 8ml in 4L of water for each dose. 4L is a full soak for each plant. I'll be getting some side-by-side pix for comparison soon. Should be getting 3 or 4 more doses before they're done.

OldMedUser said:

What's that powder called and who's ass do I have to kiss to get some?

That actually looks like a great veg formula. Lower the N to 1 - 1.5 and the P to maybe 0.5 and it would be great for after the stretch.

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This is another Random but similar slow release beaded formula I picked up for $2 a few months ago. Worked well in veg last time, and the chilli's don't seem to mind it. I like strange ratios. Maxicrop complete organic. For $2 I couldn't resist.


The current powder was a unmarked bag from a farmer's market with an analysis sticker. Simply labelled as "base fertiliser".

DreHaze said:

I did my own experiment using megacrop 1 part. Both plants were grown in the same room at same time except one plant had a bit of booster added the other didn't. It made a huge difference in my experience. But don't take my word for it, here are the pics to prove it.
View attachment 5126141
View attachment 5126142
I used about 1gram of booster for every 12grams of megracrop for this plant.

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Idk both are freakishly small buds. Looks like there's some other issues going on.

VincenzioVonHook said:

This is another Random but similar slow release beaded formula I picked up for $2 a few months ago. Worked well in veg last time, and the chilli's don't seem to mind it. I like strange ratios. Maxicrop complete organic. For $2 I couldn't resist.
View attachment 5126314

The current powder was a unmarked bag from a farmer's market with an analysis sticker. Simply labelled as "base fertiliser".

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That looks pretty good too. Huge amount of Ca proportional to Mg but both are in carbonate form which is harder for the plants to absorb. Seems more of a trace element type of supplement than a regular fertilizer but you're using it and have hands on experience o would know a lot better.

Somewhere I have a jar like that of Frittered Trace Elements. Has all those essential minerals like that but no NPK. It's hard little granules made to break down slowly in the soil so I'll put a tsp in my mortar and pestle to grind it down to powder for 5gal of mix.

Nice to find useful stuff cheap. Our whole house is decorated in an early garage sale motif. More like late hoarders motif to be real. lol

Dubstin said:

Idk both are freakishly small buds. Looks like there's some other issues going on.

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Eh? No issues whatsoever. No burnt tips and no bad taste. Looks like you can't tell the difference between a 20 day old flower and and a mature flower.

DreHaze said:

Eh? No issues whatsoever. No burnt tips and no bad taste. Looks like you can't tell the difference between a 20 day old flower and and a mature flower.

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OH OK cool show us the finished buds then

In skimming this thread I see marigolds and petunias as presented by MG. Both are basically equivalent to our autos. Suck massive nutes for a brief time. Then finish on that stored supply. Sorry commercial for MG. Not aplicable to photo plants.

Wish gardeners would chime in. And your bottled bloom enhancers are a scam. Enhance the blooming of profits for a CEO. Not you.