VegasWinner
Well-Known Member
These are the more expensive sensors for soil http://www.vegetronix.com/Products/VH400/ average cost $40 per. They have both moisture and temperature sensors. great quality. peace
On/Off functin for meanwell HLG style drivers using dimming and arduino
- Thread starter VegasWinner
- Start date
VegasWinner
Well-Known Member
I got a couple of these in today and tested them with Meanwell led drivers, and they work great. You need either a 9v batery or a 10v power supply, pick one. both work well. This device allows both a 5v pwm signal and a 10v pwm signal. These are made for cnc machines running with pc's using 5v signals, while motors need 10v to go fast. http://www.ebay.com/itm/PWM-0-10V-Digital-to-Analog-Signal-Tranformer-Converter-Module-MACH3-PLC/311703173813?_trksid=p2050601.c100085.m2372&_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=37338&meid=7d4dd1670b334811944312d4851c7898&pid=100085&rk=1&rkt=4&sd=311703173813&clkid=8910451012931607078&_qi=RTM2247625
peace
Vegas
peace
Vegas
alesh
Well-Known Member
Slightly OT, hope you don't mind. I'm using an ethernet shield with my Arduino and I'd like to have an RJ45 connector on my light. What are the requirements on the connector and cable between the shield and the connector? Does it matter? There's a lot of different RJ45 panel mount connectors ranging from $1 to $40 and I have no idea which one would be sufficient.
VegasWinner
Well-Known Member
If you go with pc based usage you will be fine. Signal is generally 5v or 3.3v. Peace
VegasWinner
Well-Known Member
A couple of updates:
1. Dimming capability. thee are a number of opportunities for 3in1 dimming. For the DIY person there is a few of what has been posted here. Most are what are called "High Side" dimming. if you google that term you will find many opportunities to build a dimming circuit. However if you are not so inclined to soldering and transistors, resistors, capacitors, etc, you m ight be interested in a pcb board already built for PLC or industrial controls and automation. Arduino's are being use used in much PLC now. Here is the link for the pwm driver. they range from $3 to $7 each channel. http://www.ebay.com/itm/291855581114?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
2. Timers. Each light fixture needs to be timed for either 12/12, 18/6, 20/4, 3o min at lights out, etc. Each of those schedules requires timers. If you add up the costs of the timers to control each fixture, $30-50 each, the cost goes up quickly. Replacing all of those timers, 8-16 is a change event. never worrying about timers being on schedule or breaking down and requiring replacement, while it stayed on, when the rest of the lights went off. SAD face. I developed the GrowGreen Controller with this the top priority. When you consider the cost of 8 timers at even $20 each $160, is still more than one GrowGreen Controller alone. Dimming becomes the bonus.
3. I have shared all of the circuits I have developed for dimming Meanwell drivers and they all work, as well as those alluded to b y others. In order to build them you need the tools and components, ergo the board available on ebay for $5. Another approach is to use a optocoupler or light emitting diode and a light accepting diode to transfer signal from the 5v Arduino to the 10v Meanwell driver. A number of optocouplers are available for this purpose. You will need a 1k resistor on the pwn pin to the diode, and another 1k resistor, to create the high side switch, between 12v power and the Collector of the transistor, tying the emitter of the transistor to ground. The leads from the two ends of the 1k resistor go to the Meanwell driver. Positive from the power supply goes to the Dim+ and the Collector side of the resistor goes to Dim-, creating a 0-10v circuit driven by the Arduino 5v pwm signal. BTW, if you tap the signal coming out of the Arduino pin and ground, yopu also have a 5v pwm signal to use for on/off functionality of the Meanwell driver, while still having the ability to dim the drivers as well. Available optocouplers are the CYN75B, CYN75GB, 4N25, to name a few available.
4. If you also use supplemental lighting, Far Red, Deep Red, IR, or royal or all the above, you can also control these with an LDD driver board, 4up or 6up from rapid leds, coralux or ebay. you can build them yourself or buy them built, and populate them with various LDD drivers, 800ma, 1000ma, etc. for each supplemental light used. Each of these LDD drivers can also be controlled to dim, or on/off with just a 5v pwm signal. Any LEd controller can do that, but only the GrowGreen controller has 8 channels and flexible control over each channel independent of other channels.
More on the GrowGreen Controller can be found here. https://growgreenled.wordpress.com/
Vegas
1. Dimming capability. thee are a number of opportunities for 3in1 dimming. For the DIY person there is a few of what has been posted here. Most are what are called "High Side" dimming. if you google that term you will find many opportunities to build a dimming circuit. However if you are not so inclined to soldering and transistors, resistors, capacitors, etc, you m ight be interested in a pcb board already built for PLC or industrial controls and automation. Arduino's are being use used in much PLC now. Here is the link for the pwm driver. they range from $3 to $7 each channel. http://www.ebay.com/itm/291855581114?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
2. Timers. Each light fixture needs to be timed for either 12/12, 18/6, 20/4, 3o min at lights out, etc. Each of those schedules requires timers. If you add up the costs of the timers to control each fixture, $30-50 each, the cost goes up quickly. Replacing all of those timers, 8-16 is a change event. never worrying about timers being on schedule or breaking down and requiring replacement, while it stayed on, when the rest of the lights went off. SAD face. I developed the GrowGreen Controller with this the top priority. When you consider the cost of 8 timers at even $20 each $160, is still more than one GrowGreen Controller alone. Dimming becomes the bonus.
3. I have shared all of the circuits I have developed for dimming Meanwell drivers and they all work, as well as those alluded to b y others. In order to build them you need the tools and components, ergo the board available on ebay for $5. Another approach is to use a optocoupler or light emitting diode and a light accepting diode to transfer signal from the 5v Arduino to the 10v Meanwell driver. A number of optocouplers are available for this purpose. You will need a 1k resistor on the pwn pin to the diode, and another 1k resistor, to create the high side switch, between 12v power and the Collector of the transistor, tying the emitter of the transistor to ground. The leads from the two ends of the 1k resistor go to the Meanwell driver. Positive from the power supply goes to the Dim+ and the Collector side of the resistor goes to Dim-, creating a 0-10v circuit driven by the Arduino 5v pwm signal. BTW, if you tap the signal coming out of the Arduino pin and ground, yopu also have a 5v pwm signal to use for on/off functionality of the Meanwell driver, while still having the ability to dim the drivers as well. Available optocouplers are the CYN75B, CYN75GB, 4N25, to name a few available.
4. If you also use supplemental lighting, Far Red, Deep Red, IR, or royal or all the above, you can also control these with an LDD driver board, 4up or 6up from rapid leds, coralux or ebay. you can build them yourself or buy them built, and populate them with various LDD drivers, 800ma, 1000ma, etc. for each supplemental light used. Each of these LDD drivers can also be controlled to dim, or on/off with just a 5v pwm signal. Any LEd controller can do that, but only the GrowGreen controller has 8 channels and flexible control over each channel independent of other channels.
More on the GrowGreen Controller can be found here. https://growgreenled.wordpress.com/
Vegas
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VegasWinner
Well-Known Member
Creating a COB fixture with supplemental lighting comparable to the commercial fixtures available on the market today has been my focus from the start. I wanted a DIY light that surpassed mars and others with supplemental led diodes, creating a complete light spectrum. I wanted what is sold, without having to buy one. I bought a commercial light a diamond and realized I could build a better fixture for less, but I would need an led controller to create the same result.
I have been able to build that COB fixture with Deep Red, InfraRed, Far Red, and Royal Blue with two 200w COB drivers using six channels. I can add two more COB fixtures if I desire and have a total of 800w of COB's, four fixtures covering a 4x4 space. Schedule control over all light spectrum is why an eight channel pwm driven arduino uno based system. I did not place my supplemental leds in a circular pattern, I used bar stock heat sinks attached to the main active cooling heat sinks, creating a complete color rendition environment maximizing growth potential with color corrected lighting.
I have read many grow journals for a 4x4 grow. Replacing the timers controlling four COB fixtures alone costs $200. More importantly, having peace of mind that no timer will fail, or change time, or require replacement over time, is reassuring. Dimming COB fixtures is a secondary issue for me, as most COB lights are designed to be on 100% . The led controller lights each fixture one after another instead all on at once reducing inrush current issues for the grow site.
This is why I built the eight channel version. The six channel version can support a smaller grow of a 3x3 or a 2x4 grow. I wanted peace of mind. I have that now. I want others to have that same piece of mind so growers can focus on what they do best create and grow great genetics. That is why there is a DIY version, which I support fully, just as if you bought a GrowGreen from me, I support you and help you get the controller up and running the way you want it to run. Just as important, the code is in the public domain allowing for even more changes to come from the community
I did not start this to create a sell-able product, I started this to fill a void that I feel is needed for the DIY community to create a quality lighting environment, led lighting control's. peace
Vegas
I have been able to build that COB fixture with Deep Red, InfraRed, Far Red, and Royal Blue with two 200w COB drivers using six channels. I can add two more COB fixtures if I desire and have a total of 800w of COB's, four fixtures covering a 4x4 space. Schedule control over all light spectrum is why an eight channel pwm driven arduino uno based system. I did not place my supplemental leds in a circular pattern, I used bar stock heat sinks attached to the main active cooling heat sinks, creating a complete color rendition environment maximizing growth potential with color corrected lighting.
I have read many grow journals for a 4x4 grow. Replacing the timers controlling four COB fixtures alone costs $200. More importantly, having peace of mind that no timer will fail, or change time, or require replacement over time, is reassuring. Dimming COB fixtures is a secondary issue for me, as most COB lights are designed to be on 100% . The led controller lights each fixture one after another instead all on at once reducing inrush current issues for the grow site.
This is why I built the eight channel version. The six channel version can support a smaller grow of a 3x3 or a 2x4 grow. I wanted peace of mind. I have that now. I want others to have that same piece of mind so growers can focus on what they do best create and grow great genetics. That is why there is a DIY version, which I support fully, just as if you bought a GrowGreen from me, I support you and help you get the controller up and running the way you want it to run. Just as important, the code is in the public domain allowing for even more changes to come from the community
I did not start this to create a sell-able product, I started this to fill a void that I feel is needed for the DIY community to create a quality lighting environment, led lighting control's. peace
Vegas
VegasWinner
Well-Known Member
Here is a basic "high side switch" optocoupler circuit. On the left side is the arduino 5v pwm pin input, on the right is the Meanwell 01v pwm signal U1 is a optocoupler CNY75GB, R1and R2 are 1k ohms, Vcc is 10v or a 9v battery. GND is Ground from the Ardiino and the Meanwell driver. Output is 0-10v pwm signal and input is 5v pwm signal. Hope this helps folks understaand a high side switch circuit. example circuit from a manufacturerhttp://www.vishay.com/docs/83741/83741.pdf . peace
Vegas
Vegas
VegasWinner
Well-Known Member
This is a short tutorial on optocouplers and how to with basic nomenclatures. http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/Optocoupler-circuit.php
VegasWinner
Well-Known Member
that is a nice simple circuit. thanks. I like simple. If you place a resistor on the collector and take a tap from V+ and tap between the collector and resistor, you have a high side switch with a 10v range attached to the base signal of 5v pwm. a simple solution. Use any decent optocoupler a couple of 1k resistors and you have a 5v to 10v pwm converter. simple circuits for simple solutions. V+ should be a 10v wall wort or a 10v constant voltage power supply. peace
VegasWinner
Well-Known Member
For those of you needing to power 5v relays or 12v controllers, here are a couple of ac options I like. http://www.ebay.com/itm/282038933190?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=580987493140&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
and this one for 5v to power relays http://www.ebay.com/itm/350944322084?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
peace
and this one for 5v to power relays http://www.ebay.com/itm/350944322084?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
peace
VegasWinner
Well-Known Member
they are actually the same circuit. Depends if it is NPN or PNP. don't hurt yourself, that looks painful. peace
wietefras
Well-Known Member
The drawing of the "high-side" switch that you posted is actually a "low-side" switch. The transistor/switch is connected to ground which means the switch is on the "low" side. If the transistor/switch is connected to V+ and the load to ground then it's a high-side switch.
I'm not sure why it matters if it's a "high" or "low" side switch though.
I'm not sure why it matters if it's a "high" or "low" side switch though.
VegasWinner
Well-Known Member
The vcc is connected to the high side or load. The driver is connected between the emitter and the collector. Vcc is5considered the load. The driver is the outcome, hence a high side switch.
Language is important. As long as we gain understanding dialog works. The important point is for DIY you can get a couple of 1k resistors, on on arduino the other on the high side, connect a 10v power supply to the high side, and create a linear 10v pwm outcome or you can buy a plc converter for $4 each. Dimming a meanwell 10v pwm led driver has been demystified and now everyone can do it. Now all 5v pwm controllers can be used to dim Mean well 10v drivers. Peace
Vegas
Language is important. As long as we gain understanding dialog works. The important point is for DIY you can get a couple of 1k resistors, on on arduino the other on the high side, connect a 10v power supply to the high side, and create a linear 10v pwm outcome or you can buy a plc converter for $4 each. Dimming a meanwell 10v pwm led driver has been demystified and now everyone can do it. Now all 5v pwm controllers can be used to dim Mean well 10v drivers. Peace
Vegas
wietefras
Well-Known Member
In your drawing the switch is on the low side of the circuit and that's why it's called a "low side switch".
You don't need an extra 10V source for PWM dimming. These things source their own 10V.
VegasWinner
Well-Known Member
That is why it is called a high side switch. The power or Vcc is on the high side. Of course the Meanwell has a 10v power source. But if you go native, the signal is inverted and goes opposite of what you expect. So you have to invert the signal again to return it to it's native state or else it is in opposition to the 5v pwm signal. Al of this has been tested and known outcomes. You need to have your own 10v power source or else the lights dims backwards or you have to invert the pwm signal coming from the arduino. Both are unacceptable for my outcomes, which is a 5v pwm signal and a 10v pwm signal in sync.
So it is called a "High Side" switch because the 10v power or Vcc is on the high side of the transistor, switching the power from 0v-10v in sync with the 5v pwm signal. If you look at the original schematic it shows power on the high side of the transistor, which is what is happening here. If you just connect the transistor to the meanwell l directly you get an inverte4d signal. We spoke of that earlier in the thread. f you have no need to control the on/off functionality of the led driver you can just invert your signal and be done with it. But not the case. We need 5v pwm for the Dc drivers and the on/off functionality of the AC drivers with a relay control. We also want to have dimming of the AC drivers just like we can dim the DC drivers.
With my unique approach, using PLC drivers to create a 10v pwm signal in sync with the original 5v pwm signal allows for coordinated control of both DC drivers and AC drivers allowing lighting designers to create custom light effects similar to the ChilledLed light with it's own light controller to control Red, Blue, and White light spectrum. The Grow3Green controller not allows DIY users to control their array of lights, but gives folks like cutter, timber, and plc the ability to design multi-spectrum lights for use, like I do. I have a 400w veg/bloom light with Far red, Deep Red, IR, and Royal Blue with 8 CBX3590 4-3500k, 4-5000k, and a GrowGreen Controller to control all lights from start to finish. All per-programed. Just set it and forget it, and just enjoy the grow instead of worrying about lights, schedules, etc, just focus on the ladies and their health.
So I know folks are less attuned to a DIY computer project, so I set about it for them and developed the 8 channel 5v/10v pwm controller, The only one on the market to date and fair priced.
thanks for the discussion on transistor switching, it is always enjoyable. peace
Vegas
VegasWinner
Well-Known Member
Yes. It was designed to control both DC and AC drivers with dimming, and ading a relay circuit alos turns HLG style drivers on/off. page one has some equipment you can look at for use. I have used them all and they all work fine. peace
Vegas
CobKits
Well-Known Member
hey vegas, can you make the growgreen dim in response to temperature? for example:
-dimming light intensity to maintain temperature at optimum on hot days when fans arent enough
-for those in cold climates, throwing on additional lights when needed to maintain temperature (as opposed to a heater- throw more light in there)
-as a safety when exhaust fan goes down- dimming lights as opposed to killing them entirely (to maintain photoperiod)
-dimming light intensity to maintain temperature at optimum on hot days when fans arent enough
-for those in cold climates, throwing on additional lights when needed to maintain temperature (as opposed to a heater- throw more light in there)
-as a safety when exhaust fan goes down- dimming lights as opposed to killing them entirely (to maintain photoperiod)
wietefras
Well-Known Member
I was hoping you simply made a mistake, but by now I have to agree with ya bongo 
Your switch is on the low side of the circuit since it's between the load and ground. That's which makes it a "low side switch". That you don't even understand basics like that explains why you think you need a 10V source though.
Your switch is on the low side of the circuit since it's between the load and ground. That's which makes it a "low side switch". That you don't even understand basics like that explains why you think you need a 10V source though.