2022 Massachusetts Outdoor Growers

PioneerValleyOG

PioneerValleyOG

Well-Known Member
Gonna have to be the Year of the Split. Lotta growers across the board sem to have a few robust plants distinct from others. I can only say my top 2 spent time in the shade more than most, imho, think strain+heat+Mother Nature <and I'm deep down sniggling about solar flares> yet, <i> something<i> affected our gardens. I've seen it in Beta as well. Monstrosities right next to ho-hum usual shit. Again, maybe sun difference, when you remove all other options, what's left has to be right.
Why so many growers with Dominant and sub-dominant plants?
So many seasons, and usually everything harmonizes.
Perhaps tis time for the strong to rule.
 
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p59teitel

Well-Known Member
mandocat said:
Pardon my memory, but does RK stand for Royal Kush?
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Rustam Kush, it’s a landrace strain from northern Afghanistan -

inoculatetheworld.com

Rustam Kush Seeds | Inoculate the World

Geography: Collected in Afghanistan’s Baharak province. Colors: The flowers feature unique Lime Greens becoming Crimson and Purple as Rustam Kush matures. Terpene Profile: Fruit and Rose terpenes. Each pack contains 10 seeds direct from BaabaQoSelections in Afghanistan.
inoculatetheworld.com inoculatetheworld.com
 
PioneerValleyOG

PioneerValleyOG

Well-Known Member
Warfox said:
In addition to Spinosad and BT, I have also been utilizing this:

View attachment 5196892



“Monterey Disease Control is a preventative biofungicide/bactericide that uses the naturally occurring beneficial bacterium Bacillus amyloliquefaciens strain D747 as its active ingredient. This OMRI listed product can be used as a foliar spray or as a soil drench. When used as a foliar spray, this bacterium will overcome any pathogenic spores present. Spray application is suggested for those diseases affecting leaves, fruit and flowers - anything above ground. When used as a soil drench, this naturally occurring bacterium goes straight to the plant's roots, where it will establish itself and grow. This colonization prevents the establishment of disease-carrying bacteria and fungi. Drench application is favored for diseases affecting roots, tubers or any other part that comes in contact with the soil.
  • For use on ornamental trees, vegetables, fruits, nuts, flowering plants, houseplants, shrubs, and tropical plants grown in and around home gardens and greenhouses.


  • For best results, plants should be treated at the first signs of disease or before disease development.


  • Can be applied up to and including the day of harvest - 0-day Pre-Harvest Interval (PHI).
Diseases Controlled: Anthracnose (Colletotrichum species), Bacterial leaf blights, spots and specks (Erwinia, Pseudomonas and Xanthomonas species), Black mold, Brown spot and Black crown rot (Alternaria species), Black spot of roses (Diplocarpon rosae), Gray mold, Botrytis blight, Fruit rot (Botrytis species), Leaf spots (Alternaria, Cercospora, Entomosporium, Helminthosporium, Myrothecium & Septoriaspecies) and Powdery mildews (Podosphaera, Erysiphe, Golovinomyces, Sphaerotheca and Oidium species, Uncinula necator, Oidiopsis taurica, Leveillula taurica)
Diseases Suppressed: Downy mildew (Bremisa lactucae, Peronospora, Plasmopara species), Early blight (Alternaria solani), Late blight (Phytophthora infestans), Fire blight (Erwinia amylovora), Pin rot (Alternaria/Xanthomonascomplex) and Scab (Venturia species)”

View attachment 5196897
And my fertilizer has amyliquefaciens in it for systemic.
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Whoa, works on botrytis?
 
M

mandocat

Well-Known Member
Poco56 said:
I’ve been using all (3) Montereys this year as well, I’ve been liking what I’m hearing about Zerotol this year too though. May need to switch gears next season.
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Zerotol works differently than the citric acid formulations and the biofungicides, it is more about treatment of ongoing PM than prevention. It "burns away" the mold, as oppossed to creating an enviornment that surpresses the developement of potential mold. Which makes me lazy, I guess. I wait until I actually see PM and then spray and if and when I see it again I spray again. I had friends at a commercial outdoor grow spraying every 2 days at one point with no measurable damage, as they had their product tested according to law. It is initially pricey, but a quart of the commercial grade Zerotol, (now called 2.0) typically lasts me 2 years. And it lasts for years stored properly. But the more tools you have, the greater success you can have, as you learn and adapt to your growing conditions. I was lucky enough to learn about Biosafe products from commercial outdoor growers who were under a lot of pressure to succeed, (to get paid), and these products worked for them.
 
Poco56

Poco56

Well-Known Member
mandocat said:
Zerotol works differently than the citric acid formulations and the biofungicides, it is more about treatment of ongoing PM than prevention. It "burns away" the mold, as oppossed to creating an enviornment that surpresses the developement of potential mold. Which makes me lazy, I guess. I wait until I actually see PM and then spray and if and when I see it again I spray again. I had friends at a commercial outdoor grow spraying every 2 days at one point with no measurable damage, as they had their product tested according to law. It is initially pricey, but a quart of the commercial grade Zerotol, (now called 2.0) typically lasts me 2 years. And it lasts for years stored properly. But the more tools you have, the greater success you can have, as you learn and adapt to your growing conditions. I was lucky enough to learn about Biosafe products from commercial outdoor growers who were under a lot of pressure to succeed, (to get paid), and these products worked for them.
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That’s a great understanding of how Zerotol works... Thanks! I’m pretty sure I’ll be adjusting to Zerotol for next year.
 
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p59teitel

Well-Known Member
Rain all day on the SouthCoast after drizzle most of the day yesterday. I guess I’ll find out how resistant the new strains are to the usual plagues.
 
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berrybad

Member
berrybad said:
First time grower, buds comin in nicely, anyone offer some advice as to when I can harvest

Edit. Running into issues getting pics to upload
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i believe ive fixed my issue, again first time growing, started simple as a hobby to help me stay clean with minimal investment so just used a miracle grow all in one soil. besides that I topped once and followed some guides on trimming and shaping wiht low stress training. i would bring her inside every night until she got way to big recently. I've not added any nutrients or used any chemicals to promote growth, kill bugs, etc. Looking for tips on deciding my harvest time and if theirs anything i could begin doing this late to improve the end result.

hope you guys will take care of me, thanks alot.
 

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Warfox

Warfox

Well-Known Member
berrybad said:
i believe ive fixed my issue, again first time growing, started simple as a hobby to help me stay clean with minimal investment so just used a miracle grow all in one soil. besides that I topped once and followed some guides on trimming and shaping wiht low stress training. i would bring her inside every night until she got way to big recently. I've not added any nutrients or used any chemicals to promote growth, kill bugs, etc. Looking for tips on deciding my harvest time and if theirs anything i could begin doing this late to improve the end result.

hope you guys will take care of me, thanks alot.
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Great job man, looks awesome. I would however, at least hit up your local grow shop or Amazon and purchase some BT and/or Spinosad. Maybe $15 for a bottle. Your plants look great now, but IMHO if you don’t get out ahead of the caterpillars now, then your plants will pay the price in mold.

If you chose not to, then purchase a spray bottle and fill it up with some 3% hydrogen peroxide. You can spray any moldy buds, cut them out, and spray the immediate area with the hydrogen peroxide to curtail spread of the mold(works well for me).

I personally take a very surgical approach to mold, excising only the frankly diseased buds and leaving as much as possible intact on the rest of the cola, and this method has worked very well for me.
 
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Warfox

Warfox

Well-Known Member
Also: holy SH*T these last two days of rain have super-charged plant maturation! My Blueberry Muffins are certainly testing the strength of their support structures(poles and jute twine) - straight bent over donkey d*cks…WOW!

Will shore up my later-maturing Mango and White Widow tomorrow.
 
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berrybad

Member
Warfox said:
Great job man, looks awesome. I would however, at least hit up your local grow shop or Amazon and purchase some BT and/or Spinosad. Maybe $15 for a bottle. Your plants look great now, but IMHO if you don’t get out ahead of the caterpillars now, then your plants will pay the price in mold.

If you chose not to, then purchase a spray bottle and fill it up with some 3% hydrogen peroxide. You can spray any moldy buds, cut them out, and spray the immediate area with the hydrogen peroxide to curtail spread of the mold(works well for me).
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your kind words are very appreciated, I've been really impressed with her growth, i wish i remembered the strain but the seeds were purchased a decade ago. these are exactly the recommendations i am looking for, BT and spinosad, and how often would I use that?
 
Warfox

Warfox

Well-Known Member
berrybad said:
your kind words are very appreciated, I've been really impressed with her growth, i wish i remembered the strain but the seeds were purchased a decade ago. these are exactly the recommendations i am looking for, BT and spinosad, and how often would I use that?
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This late in the season I would mix them double-strength and spray every 3-5 days and certainly re-apply after any stiff rain shower.

I also recommend spraying at dusk. I subscribe to the, “ it’s better to apply out of the sun” method.
 
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